QuestionQUESTION: Hi Mark,
That 23 fuse powers two sections of the ignition switch which one part draws upon it in the 'run' position and both parts in the 'start' position. Did you happen to notice if it blows just by turning it to run, or do you have to go to start before it blows? If you didn't notice, then rather than blowing another fuse just measure the resistance to ground on the cold side of the fuse socket and notice whether it is shorted to ground in the run position (i.e. less than 1 ohm) or if it only gets that low when you move to the start position.
Roland
Hi Roland
i had to start a new thread, It does not matter if the ignition is on or not the fuse blows as there is continious power, I took the electrical socket from the ignition switch put a new fuse in and had power to both sides when I replaced the socket the fuse blew ! Ignition switch broke ?
ANSWER: Hi Mark,
It would appear that the ignition switch has a short to the mounting. The fuse current comes in on pin 5 of plug, and there should be no draw (infinite resistance) to ground showing on that pin until you go to the run position at which point current is allowed to flow to pin 3 (short between 5 and 3) and in start to pin 3 and pin 4 (short between 5 and both those pins). In off and any other switch positions except run and start there should be infinite resistance between 5 and ground.
Roland
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QUESTION: I have found a new switch on ebay and have ordered it, do you think it would be prudent to get a new barrel as well?
If this sorts it life will return to normal, well until the next prob.
Kind Regards
Mark
ANSWER: If the key is functioning properly I see no need for a new lock barrel. To remove the switch,
put the key in the run position, and notice a tab on the side of the housing at the barrel area and pust that tab in to remove the barrel. Then remove the two screws that hold the switch in place (torx 10). The switch is held on the mounting by one or two retaining tabs, so push in on those to remove it from the column. When installing, make sure the new switch is in the run position, and the actuator shaft is also in the run position. Put on the plug, then install the switch and have it snap over the retaining tabs, install mounting screws. Install the key cylinder in the run position.
It might be good to verify that the switch indeed is shorted to ground, though I see no other explanation for why the fuse would blow.
Roland
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QUESTION: Hi Roland
I have put a brand new switch on from Chrysler, however the car starts when you dip the clutch as in you do not have to turn the ignition key to "crank" also when I turn it off the starter starts to crank.... after some wiggling of the key the car turns off normaly. The key barrel is not to clever now it has been pulled out a few times and I can take the key out in the run position, any ideas ?
Kind Regards
Mark
AnswerHi Mark,
I am pleased that the fuse no longer blows. Now it appears there is still an issue with either the lock cylinder, the housing in which it mounts or the actuator that connect the cylinder to the ignition switch. Clearly the key position and the switch position are out of synch. Only inspection of the situation will tell you what needs to be replaced (or adjusted?). I can copy some pages off of a CD for '04 model and attach them to an email which will show you how to dismantle whatever you need to do around those parts to figure out what is wrong.
But you need to tell me your email address as I don't normally see it. So select the 'private' option on a follow-up or new question and in the text type in your email address.
Roland
