Chrysler Repair: Sebring 2.5 V-6: took 4 key turns to start, chrysler sebring lxi, throttle position sensor


Question
QUESTION: Hi, Roland a few days ago parked car for awhile it was a slight incline angle where front end was slightly higher.  It is a 1999 Chrysler Sebring LXI V6 with 95,000 miles on it took 4 key turns to start it did not feel like battery was low because it turned over well.  About 3 years ago it had the throttle position sensor replaced.  

After the car sat in garage for 4 days it did not start first turn of key it took 2 or 3 then ran fine.

My question is what could cause it on that day to take 4 turns of the key I was afraid I would have to tow it but it ran fine afterwards.

>>Roland could this be a subtle sign of fuel pump going out or do they just up & quit?<<   

I baby the car always garaged put speedway gas or marathon gas

I have noticed walmart gas says 10.00% ethanol corn or something like I did put 1 tank of the the gas thru out of convenience.  Is the walmart gas a cheaper gas or not as good for car?

Please let me know what you think

Thank You,

Michael

ANSWER: Hi Michael,
There are many possibilities. I doubt it is gas or a fuel pump issue. You might want to get the fault codes readout, ofter for free at a nationwide parts store such as Autozone.
The other possibiiity for hard starting that doesn't produce a code is if the exhaust gas recirculation valve doesn't close tightly when at idle which will cause it to idle a bit rough and also to be difficult to start. Let me know which engine is in the car and I can describe where to find it and how to free-up the valve action using WD-40.
Roland

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QUESTION: Hi Roland

It has the 2.5 V6 is the valve in close reach where would I find it? Please let me know
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Thank You,

Michael

Answer
Hi Michael,
Another owner of the same vehicle posted an idea for you to consider when you have the 'hard to start' with no fault codes:

"I had a fuel filter which had a check valve in it which was bad.
fter sitting for a long time the fuel would run back to the fuel tank which would take a while to pump the air out of the system. Changed the fuel filter and solved the problem. Simple but it worked for me."

It may apply to your situation. The manual says very little about the fuel filter or its design. To change it you have to remove the air intake hose and remove the battery. Then remove the bolt on the top of the filter while holding the filter itself with an open end wrench applied to the 'flats' on the top, and similarly remove the fuel outlet tubing and hold the filter by the flats at the lower end. Before opening those connection put a rag around the fitting as fuel will still be somewhat under pressure and can spray on you. Note the location of the gaskets.

Roland




Hi Michael,
It is in the area approximately under the filler cap where you add oil to the engine.
The first thing I would do is check the mechanical function of the egr valve which is located along a pipe that runs from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car) to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle). That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve by a sort of saddle.  Inside the open saddle you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion. Also check all the rubber vacuum hoses associated with the valve and a nearby vacuum solenoid valve. If the valve seems to open (against the action of a spring) and close firmly by the spring action when using the screwdriver blade to facilitate the motion, then you should be able to now start the engine. You can, once it is idling, check that the valve stem moves when you rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle. If it still won't start, then removing and cleaning the interior of the valve, or buying a new one if it seems too crudy and corroded inside, is the next step to getting the engine to start.