QuestionQUESTION: Chrysler Lebaron 2.2l turbo charged convertible which wasn't touched for 3 years. I took it out charged the battery and started using it. Ran fine, until the frequency of the engine dying out even while driving at a good speed (50-60 mph) started to increase and became very problematic until it reached a point when it won't start again without a jump. I then changed the battery recently, it ran fine initially, but after a few rides the engine started dying out again with increasing frequency, but maybe because of the new battery, it would start again, but started taking longer times to start. I checked the electrical wiring in the hood and taped all the open cuts that I could find. Then drove the car yesterday for over 30 miles without any problem. Today morning it won't start at all. Please help.
ANSWER: Hi Murali,
Use the ignition key to get engine fault codes:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the check engine light to see it begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat to be sure of an accurate set of flash counts. Then group the count in pairs to form the 2-digit fault codes. The last code is always 55 because that means end of readout. A code 11 means that the crank sensor is bad, a code 54 means the cam sensor is bad. Tell me what codes you get and I'll tell you what you need to do. It does behave like the hall-effect sensors in the distributor are failing as what you describe is exactly how they behave when that happens.
Roland
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
Chrysler Dashboard sna
QUESTION: Thank you Roland for the prompt reply, the car started in the evening, when I was trying to follow your instructions to get the fault codes.
This has been the problem with the car, it stops at unexpected & important times and won't budge, at other times it runs just fine. But the frequency of these problems is more like atleast 1-2 times a day.
Is it still prossible to get these codes now? Or should I wait till the engine dies again and/or doesn't start again?
Also, I couldn't find the "check engine" light, but instead I found the "((!))" symbol, is this the check engine light?
I have attached a compressed image of the dashboard for you to have a look at the lights.
Thank you.
ANSWER: Hi Murali,
No problem with when you check for codes, they are store until they are erased or a long time without happening again. You do erase them if you disconnect the battery, however. So anytime is fine. Thanks for the photo. The light for the codes on the turbo model is the "power loss" light. Watch it and count the flashes.
Roland
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: I got a 1-2-5-5. Confirmed with a couple of runs too. I suppose the fault code is 12.
AnswerHi Murali,
The 12 code simply states that sometime in the past 50-100 key cycles the battery was disconneted, probably when you took it out of storage.
So we are left with a die out, no codes. I would suggest that when it happens that you first turn the key from off to run and listen to find out if the fuel pump runs for about a second or not. Normally it should do that, then when you use the starter motor is runs again but you can't hear it so well. If you don't hear it for that second, then the pump is bad or its relay control.
The other possibility is that the egr valve, assuming that you have one, is sticking slightly ajar which causes the engine to die when slowing down and to be difficult to start/idle. If would be on the firewall side of the engine, closer to the front of the engine and above the exhaust manifold. It is mounted in a pipe that braches off the exhaust manifold and it has a round top with a vacuum hose, the body of the valve is in the pipe, and between those two parts is a flange inside of which is a rod which it the valve stem . You will see a slot in the stem into which the tip of a secrewdriver can be inserted so as to allow you to move the stem back and forth against spring-action in one direction that tries to close the valve . See if it closes to a dead stop on its own and movez freely. If not then lube the stem where it enters the valve body with some WD-40 and work the stem some more.
You also could check to see if you have spark when the engine dies and won't start.
Those are my only ideas for now.
Roland
PS Please 'rate' my answer and where you see the question about a nomination to be 'volunteer of the month' consider giving a 'yes' answer. Thank you
