QuestionQUESTION: The transmission quit working driving ~ 45mph. No slippage, fluid full and looks good and pink. There is no reverse or forward gears. I tried the tricks to get it to show fault codes (ign. switch on & off and trip odometer buuton) but it didn't show anything. Maybe I didn't do it correctly. I have had several people say it is either a speed sensor or transmission pump. What is the most cost-effective way of diagnosing this? The car is stuck at home.
ANSWER: Hi Rob,
The fault code is necessary. Turn the key:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the odometer window (forget the odometer buttone) to see if the mileage changes to show any 4-digit numbers preceded by a P. Tell me what they are and tell me the year/model/engine of the vehicle.
Roland
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QUESTION: Hi Roland, The fault code never appeared after trying the on-off sequence. The car is a 2001 Sebring LXI, V6 3.0L, VIN 4c3ag52h81e129028.
ANSWER: Hi Rob,
I am unclear about exactly which Sebring you have. This appears to be a 2-door Mitsubishi model, but I thought it used the 2.5L V-6.
It is unusual for the transmission to stop driving the wheels entirely. Have you checked the fluid level as shown on the dipstick? Have you checked to be sure that one or the other half-shafts isn't disconnected?
The Mitsubishi does not readout for fault codes via the instrument cluster. It requires a plug-in code reader to the socket under the dash by the steering column to get transmission fault codes. The check engine light may begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. after you do the ignition key routine, but only engine fault codes can be learned that way, not transmission fault codes.
Roland
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QUESTION: It is a Mitsubishi 2 door model and it is a 3.0L V6. Fluid is good and the shift linkage appears to be moving & transferring from the shifter to the top of the linkage on top of the transmission. Tha is the extent of my diagnostic ability with transmissions unless there is something else fairly easy.
AnswerI think the best approach would be to see if you can borrow/rent/buy a code reader and find the socket under the dash to plug it into. Otherwise, it means towing it to a shop. How about the possibility of a drive shaft being disconnected? I am interested to know that they put a 3.0L in that vehicle in '01. Was that the last year of its production?
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