QuestionQUESTION: Greetings...I am at my wits end and any help would be greatly appreciated. Even the local Chrysler dealer in Phoenix is stumped(after charging me $120) I have a 1993 Grand Voyager 3.3 SE, been in the family since new. Good all round shape...150 miles. Replaced the trans last year with a remanufactured one from a recycling yard(came out of a Dynasty around same year) 3.3 engine has been acting up...so in last year I have replaced fuel pump,ignition switch, coil pack, plugs, wires,crank sensor, but will just stall. Sometimes at a stop light at idle, once at 70 MPH on the freeway. Always starts up right away, but occasionally bucks under acceleration-like in cruise climbing a hill...then the speedo drops and jumps around, shuts down the cruise, but seems to correct itself. Is this a transmission issue, sensor, or engine issue? Van did overheat once on blowing a rad hose, but seems too good to scrap.
ANSWER: Hi Gord,
I presume that the dealer/you have checked for fault codes using the ignition key, and that the dealer used a DRB II engine analyzer as well to see if he could identify the malfunction.
Other than that approach, the most suspect part in my mind is the exhaust gas recirculation valve.
My immediate suspicion is that your egr valve is sticking slightly ajar which will cause the engine to falter/stop at idle speed after slowing down and when trying to accelerate. The valve is located near the throttle body air intake at the rear end of the engine, mounted in a pipe that recirculates exhaust gas from the rear cylider bank exhaust pipe back around to the intake manifold. The exhaust gases have some fumes that can plate out a crud on the valve stem and thus keep it from closing tight when you are at idle. That makes for a too lean mixture so the engine stalls. The valve proper is mounted horizontally with the stem visible in a space between the body of the valve mounted on the pipe and the round top of the valve which is flanged and so if you look carefully you will see a metal rod (stem of the valve) with a slot around its circumference. You can take the tip of flat blade screwdriver and insert it in the slot and then lever the valve back and forth to check if it is moving freely (against spring action in one direction) or not. If it doesn't seem to close easily with the help of the built-in spring, then I would spray the base of the stem with solvent from a pressure can (such as WD-40 or carb cleaner) while moving the stem back and forth. Then see if that solves the issue.
If not, then I would try to see if the engine controller has stored any fault codes in its memory: on-off-on-off-on and leave on with the ignition key (quickly, less than 5 seconds elapses) and then observe the check engine light to begin flashing, pause, etc. Count the number flashes before each pause. Group the numbers in pairs in the order they they readout to form the fault codes. Let me know any such codes.
Roland
PS Please 'rate' my answer, and where you see the question about 'volunteer of the month' consider a 'yes' answer. Thank you.
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QUESTION: I have changed the EGR valve with a good used unit, and have now obtained the following codes from the Voyager....12...33...21...55. It seems to be running OK but we are nervous about using it due to its reliability. Now the A/C clutch will not engage unless using a jumper wire across the cooling line switch....any suggestions would again be greatly appreciated. thanks ..
ANSWER: Hi Gord,
The 12 and 55 are not significant, just meaning that the battery was disconnecting in the past 50-100 key cycles and 'end of readout', respectively.
The 21 means the signal for the heated oxygen sensor is abnormal. Usually it means that the sensor is bad or its delicate wires are damaged. It is located on the top of the exhaust manifold where it joins the exhaust pipe (on the manifold next to the fire wall). You could inspect the wires and if they seem OK, then I would change out the sensor on the assumption that it is worn out. Be careful with the wires. To remove it I would spray some penetrating oil on the threads and let it sit overnight and then warm up the engine before try to remove it from the manifold. The new one comes with anti-lock compound to apply to the thread of the new one.
Tighten about the same as a sparkplug. The sensor's purpose is to optimize the fuel/air mixture for reduced pollution and maximal fuel economy so having it function properly will also probably make the engine run better.
The 33 is about the compressor clutch. It might have been 'set' when you jumped the clutch switch or it could be due to a fault in the wiring of the compressor clutch. The initial problem of the AC not coming on of course could be due to too low a charge of refrigerant in the system and they sensor for that will cause the compressor to be defeated from activation. So before doing anything I would have the pressure checked at an a/c shop.
Roland
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QUESTION: I just added a can of refrigerant and leak sealer ( from Walmart) through a unit I purchased with a gauge in the line. The can went in and stayed around 40 lbs pressure...which was in the green ...(OK)...area of the gauge. Any other easy suggestions I could check before taking it in ? It was working fine about 4-5 months ago...and since sitting....went "haywire". I swear this van is " possessed". Thanks
AnswerHi Gord,
The basic control of the ac clutch switch is:
A brown wire from the switch to pin 27 of powercontrol module of the engine. The second wire is brown/white wire goes to the AC combo valve which appears to be mounted under the dash near what is called the 'expansion valve' (an oblong box) where the compressed refrigerant is bled into the evaporator inside the AC/heater housing. That expansion valve has several electrical plugs, one of which is a three wire plug for the compo valve which is part of the the expansion valve, and one of those wires is the other end of the brown/white wire. Those two wires should be verified for continuity. Just look for the ac refrigerant lines that come through the firewall inside the cabin to find the expansion valve and the plug and wires I described.
Do that first, and if the wires are good then I can xerox copy two pages that show how to test the function of the valve and if faulty how to replace it.
That valve is powered by fuse #8 in the box under the dash so checking to see that the fuse is good would be important to do before anything else.
Roland
PS Thanks for the rating and nomination
