QuestionQUESTION: On a previous question you replied:
"If you believe it is the starter relay that is clicking, then the question is why doesn't the starter motor solenoid close and connect the power from the fat red wire that comes from the battery to the armature of the motor? Pull the starter motor relay and jump from the rear pin to the one next to it (B to D) and that should cause the motor to turn IF you have power on B. If it does fire up, then the relay contacts are oxidized, if it doesn't fire up, then check to be sure 12V is getting to tne starter motor on the light green wire that goes from pin D to it when you do the jump. If you have 12v on the wire then the solenoid switch should click loudly and fire up the motor. If it has 12v and it doesn't click the solenoid then the solenoid is bad or the battery is very weak. You have to get the solenoid to click for the battery current to be applied the motor."
When I jumped B to D I did get the motor to rotate, but it didn't fire up. I did have 12v on the pin prior to jumping. but had 11v while I was jumping the pins. It is a brand new battery.
ANSWER: OK, then if the relay, when you put it back in the socket, clicks when you have a helper try the key, then the relay'a internal points are oxidized and you should replace it. To verify that now, switch it with another relay with the same part number to see if that will work normally. Of course it wouldn't start witha jump like that, you didn't have the rest of the electronics turned on. If it doesn't click, then we have another issue to sort out.
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QUESTION: Ok, I noticed that it wasn't the starter relay that was clicking, it was the TCM relay. I had someone turn the key like they were trying to crank the car up while I jumped the pins on the starter relay & that didn't work either. I had switched relays & that didn't work.
ANSWER: Check fuse N in the box under the hood and fuse 13 in the box in the dash. Other than that I am at a loss to suggest anything else.
If the fuses are good and the starter relay doesn't click, then either the ignition switch is faulty, the park/neutral safety switch is out of adjustment, or the wiring between them is 'open'.
You can check the ignition switch by looking at the A pin in the relay socket (the rear pin of 3) to see if it shows 12v when you try 'start'.
Then if that is good, see if pin C (the front pin of the 3) shows a short to ground when you try the start. That will happen if the p/n switch is OK.
Both of those conditions are required for the relay to close.
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QUESTION: Hi Roland
I replaced my entire engine harness today & all went well. It fixed the starter issue but my car will still not fire up with the Cam sensor connected, but will without it. Funny thing is, if the car dies while I am driving & the cam sensor is connected it will fire right back up. So I excluded a wiring issue to be the problem, and I have done everything else...
AnswerI would check the timing of the camshafts to see that they are aligned to each other and with the mark on the crank sprocket/oil pump. Another owner of a different engine (as I recall) who had the same sort of fluke found that the problem was the cam shafts were not lined up properly so that when the cam sensor was hooked up it would be out of time.
Roland
