Chrysler Repair: 97 chrysler concorde 3.5 stalling:codes 11 and 1391, crank sensor, chrysler concorde

Question
QUESTION: My car was stalling as I was driving for no reason.  Eventually the check engine light came on. I took it to Advance Auto and they scanned it. The 3 codes were p0725, p0700, and p1391. i did the self scan and got code 11. We replaced the input and output transmission speed sensors and the Cam shaft sensor. Before replacing the cam sensor it ran very rough.  when you revved it and let go of the accelerator the tac dropped quickly.  when it was trying to stall it was very violent.  now it runs smooth and I have driven it around my neighborhood for a few hours and seemed fine.. no check engine light is on now.  but then it attempted to stall, yet was not violent this time and did not last long like it did before.  it happened 3 times all whiling turning hard right.  it seems to occur when pulling off or driving at a steady speed.  not when coming to a stop or at a complete stop.  Also it has not stalled while in the driveway, while revving or doing anything else.  only while actually driving it.  thanks.  i appreciate any help.

ANSWER: Hi Adrienne,
The 1391 pointed to either the cam or the crank sensor being intermittent However, the 11 code is very relevant as it points directly at the crank sensor. Like the cam, when it starts failing it does so as it warms up, then cools and recovers while it is stalled. So change that sensor and see if the issue is over. You find it on the passenger side of the drive train, just behind the flange that marks the seam between the engine and the transmission, sitting just above the top surface of the transmission housing. It has a plug that you release by lifting a tap, and a screw that holds it in place. You push the new one in until the paper-covered tip touches the hidden inner surface that is 'senses'. Hold it in contact with that surface and tighten the screw to hold it in that position.
Roland

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QUESTION: I am not sure if this matters but i noticed I was not clear about this.  My car violently attempts to stall.  But i gave it more gas each time so eventually it stopped bucking and continued like normal.  it stalled maybe 2 times out of 20 episodes.  after i replaced cam sensor the check engine light has not come back on.  Do you think it could still be the Crank sensor.  I was wondering if it could be the MAP sensor.  I just got back from driving it again and it attempted to stall once.  it gave me one hard jerk but then continued to drive fine for at least 20 minutes.

Answer
The best thing to do is disconnect the -post clamp of the battery for about a minute to erase the former fault codes. Then after you hook it up again drive long enough for it to stall or threaten to stall then re-read the codes to see what is 'fresh'. There will be a 12 which you can ignore, and a 55 likewise, but see if the 11 or any other code shows up. The MAP has its own code: 14
Roland