QuestionQUESTION: Hello Roland,
I have a 1995 Chrysler Concorde with a 3.3 & 118k. I bought it from the original owner about 10k ago. The check engine light goes on and off. The problem is..it goes periods when it almost want's to cut out. Sometimes when I start it...it idles very rough and when you hit the gas it doesn't go no where but sputter. Then on the highway the other day...the check engine light came on and when I went up hills and had to accelerate the car didn't like it and would sputter until I let off the gas some then it picked up. For the first time since it's been going on the last 4-5 months the car cut off soon after a rough idle start and wouldn't re-start for about an hour...then ran fine for the next 300 + miles. Any idea's?..would be most appreciated. Thanks, Steve.
ANSWER: Hi Steve,
The check engine light coming on means that the engine computer has recognized a fault in the operation and has characterized that by a coded number stored in its memory. You can get that number using the ignition key: turn it "on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the check engine light, which remains 'on', to see it begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause, then repeat the process to be sure of an accurate set of flash counts. The coded number(s) are found by group in the counts in pairs to form two-digit numbers which are the codes. The last such code will always be 55 because that is the code that says the readout is completed. Any codes before that are relevant to the problem
Based on what you describe I believe one of the codes will be 32 which has to do with the exhaust gas recirculation valve. The exhaust gas recirculation valve is located behind the engine near the air intake throttle valve. It is mounted in a pipe that runs between passenger side exhaust manifold and the air intake manifold. The valve is mounted horizontally and has a valve stem between its round vacuum actuator top and the body of the valve attached to the pipe, inside the flange that connects the two parts. The stem has a slot into which you can insert the tip of a flat-bladed screwdriver so as to lever the stem back and forth against spring action which should move freely and close tightly. If the stem seems to be sticky so that stem doesn't close all the way by spring action, then you can try spraying some penetrating solvent like WD-40 on the valve stem to freeup its motion.
If the valve is sticking slightly ajar it will make for a rough idle and poor acceleration such as you describe because the mixture is too dilute. It is one of the most common causes of this symptom. So see if you can find the valve and check/lubricate the stem. To check it in motion you can rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle and watch to see if the valve stem moves freely in both directions to the extreme open and closed positions. It may be that the interior of the valve is cruddy so that might require that it be unbolted from the pipe where it it attached and cleaned. But chances are good it will only be a sticky stem. Feel free to write back with the code results and other questions you might have.
Roland
PS Please use the 'thank/rate' tab below to rate my answer, and where you see the question about 'volunteer of the month' consider giving a 'yes' answer if this proves to be helpful. Thanks
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Hello again Roland. Thank you for your previous help..worked out great. I have another issue that just came up. The electric fan attached to the radiator is acting up. There will be a sound first (almost like a big water drop hitting a deep metal bucket) then the fan will turn on for about 4-5 seconds..go off..then the sound..the on again 4-5 sec..that process just keeps repeating itself. What would be your ideas on that? Thanks again for help, Steve.
ANSWER: Hi Steve,
It might be the fan or the fan relay. You could try switching the fan relays. If it solves the problem then you need a new relay, otherwise the bearings/armature in the fan motor may be at the end of their life.
Roland
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Thanks for the quick response Roland. I did forget too mention when this happens the interior lights do dim on and off. Does that more so lead you to believe one way or another? Thanks, Steve.
AnswerIt makes me think the fan is drawing too much current. Try unplugging it at its nearby connector and jump directly from the battery to by-pass the relay entirely, and see if it does the same thing, or do what I suggested, eg exchange the fan relays and see what it does.
