QuestionQUESTION: My fan switch will not work. I tried a different PCM but it didn’t fix it. I changed the wire harness from the alternator to the driver side connections. I changed the ECM on the passenger side . Didn’t fix it. There are many fusible links in the wiring bundle, same colors. How would I change the right one? Can I crimp it, then heat shrink? My Denso alternator is working but I am thinking it may have a short and won’t provide the power to kick on the radiator fan relay. Would a defective alternator keep the fan from switching on? Code 41 and 35. I changed the distributor and 41 went away. I have a replacement alternator … a Bosch 90 Family HS same as the Denso on mine except it says 14V where as the Denso says 12V. I have a 4groove pulley, but there seems to be plenty of room for the 6 groove pulley. The alternator wiring harness is a perfect fit. I cannot find any info on the Bosch . I had it field tested and was told it was good. Allpar called it a rare alternator used on 3.0 mitsubishi ‘s as the only reference.
The transaxle relays had a loose green wire, same color as fan wire at fan motor, and at fan relay on opposite side of engine. The ASD relay has power and the A/C clutch relay and radiator fan relay are I believe intermittent dual switches, connected by a grey wire and a green wire. The fan relay controls the check engine light and has power to that part. The connections seem good(but no fan power). Any idea on the fan problem? The car is smoking worse now.I hope it isn’t because it overheated. I was thinking of adding a engine block sealer for now and buying a new O2 sensor and trying to remember to turn off the toggle switch, but I need my AC compressor to turn on and it‘s controlled through the fan.
Is there anyway to know if a relay is continuous or intermittent? Or Solid State? Will it be ok if I pull the cover off and look then put it back? I have about 20 spares, but only a few of the custom fitting ones. I need to know if I burned out a new one trying to find the problem. My son says I over think and my questions make him dizzy. Can you help me? Thanks, Retired Granny
ANSWER: Can you tell me the year/model/engine/body style? I need the specifics
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QUESTION: Maybe I didn't tell you all. 1990 Chrysler Lebaron convertible, 6 cylinder with 3.0 Mitsubishi engine, 4 speed(3+od)automatic. The black box computer is on the passenger sidewall front of hood, with a sixty pin connection, and the power control module with 60pin connection is on the air intake behind the drivers headlight. The problem relays are on the drivers side, but the problem parts(map,temp gauge, distrib,alternator,purge solenoid, were on the passenger side,except throttle contol relay which appeared to be the big problem with the shut off. I believe it was put together during major transition of the body style. Thanks, Granny Mary
ANSWER: 1990 Lebaron 3.0 Convertible 4 speed. Built in late 1989. Has two engine 60 pin connector modules. Passenger side has ECM-Engine Logic? Drivers side has power module. Ignition relay silver, 3 switch relays on drivers fender well, pack of 2 transaxle relay on passenger side. Relay bank inside driver door fender wall. The 15 amp fan fuse was replaced a couple of times.
ANSWER:
Hi Granny Mary,
My head is spinning too!
I'll try and sort out your question about the radiator fan motor not working; then if you can re-define/re-phrase the other issues and we'll deal with them later. Let me preface by noting that Chrysler put out two wiring diagrams for the '90 Lebaron J-body convert and coupe, evidentally because of errors, which appear to have to do with these specific circuits!
The current to drive the fan and the a/c clutch comes to their relays on a light green wire(but I discovered that there is ambiguity about this point in the wiring diagrams...the color of the wire could by gray). That wire should show 12V all the time if the battery is connected. So start with that test. The relays are on the left inner fender, side by side, 2nd and 3rd from the front relay; middle is the a/c, rear is the fan.
If you don't show 12V at either relay's wire then most likely an orange fusible link in the multi-link harness behind the battery is blown. There are two orange fusible links the one in question is spliced together with the light green (gray?) wire, and the other is spliced to two wires (a red wire and a white fusible link). You can test the link by pulling on the ends and if it is blown then it will pull apart. You would buy a replacement of the same color and size and re-splice it into position just like the original. It would be good to try jumping 12V from the battery directly to the fan (disconnect pin where a light green wire is attached) and directly to the a/c clutch (dark blue/black at the clutch) and make sure that the fan works and that the a/c clutch clicks. If either fails, then what would be why the fusible blew and which ever failed it would need to be replaced before you install the new fusible link.
So check it out and let me know what you find.
Roland
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QUESTION: I have 4 pin OEM relays,with 5 wires at each connection. One relay has two green plus 3 other pin wires. One relay has two light grey, plus 3 other pin wires. One of the grey and one of the green are connectors between the two relays.the circuit light with power is the blue/pink when the key is on. I believe this powers the check engine light, and is on the relay with the two green wires. The fan did run continuously battery to the relay pin. Fusible links look,feel good. Can I send you photo's next Monday or Tuesday? I had to leave the car at the farm because I transport bulldogs, and breakdowns stress me out. It seems to be running great now I can turn the fan on with the toggle switch, but I need more test driving without the pups. The other info was questioning another cause for fan not powering up. Thanks,Granny Mary
AnswerHi Mary,
The fan relay actuation coil requires first that fuse 16 (15 amp) be working, and second that the ecm is getting a signal from the temperature sensor on the engine that says "turn on the fan" or if it gets the message "the driver has asked for A/C". When it gets that message it grounds the dark blue/pink wire that is connected to its pin 31.
So check out that #16 fuse to begin with. If that is good, then you should see the dark blue/pink wire which normally read 12V drop to 0V when you ask for A/C or the engine temp rises to 3/4 scale or more. That 'grounding' of the dark/blue pink is what activates the coil and closes the points on the fan relay.
Thanks for clarifying the color codes on the pins with two wires. There is a misprint in the manual which I have now corrected.
Roland
