Chrysler Repair: non-shifting, transmission control module tcm, dipstick tube

Question
QUESTION: When driving it will feel like the van in not shifting and the rpm's will race high.  It does not do this all the time.  Sometimes we will accelerate just to get it to shift and kick the rpm's back down.  I read that is could be a transmission vacuum hose?  Where is this located?  Or could I be looking at a need for a new transmission?  2005 Chrysler T & C touring, 69000 miles

ANSWER: Hi Janet,
There are no vacuum lines with these electronic transmissions. Rather there is a transmission control module (TCM) which operates the system and causes the hydrualic-operated clutches inside the transmission to shift into the several gears.
When you have an apparent malfunction the best thing to do is inquire of the trans control module whether it has observed any malfunctions and related them to a specific part(s) involved with the unit or electrical connections/switches. It summarizes what it has observed in a 'fault code' which is a specific 4-digit number, prefixed with a P. The inquiry is made in one of two ways: turn the ignition switch:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the odometer window to see if any 4-digit numbers appear in the odometer window of the speedometer. If that doesn't produce numbers then there is a socket under the dash into which a fault code reader is inserted and the codes are requested. You can get such a readout at an Autozone parts store (and perhaps if none are near you a different parts chain store) for free, and if none are available an independant repair shop will usually do the readout for less than $40.
Once you get the numbers let me know what they are and we'll go from there. One thing to check now would be the dipstick of the transmission to see that you have the fluid at the proper level. If you need fluid you would use "ATF+4" and add it via the dipstick tube being careful not to overfill the unit. A too low level of fluid is a possible reason for what you are describing.
Roland

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QUESTION: Hi, when going through the diognostic procedure you decribed above, the readout was "donE" . We also we to the auto store and had them hook it up and they got an all clear, no problems. What now?

Answer
Hi Janet,
I assume that you checked the level of transmission fluid as well.
Because there is no code, I would not opt for any major repair in the hopes of fixing something that may not be broken. Leave well enough alone is my belief.
The one idea I have is that the gear shift lever-to-transmission shift rod connection is not properly adjusted such that you may have a situation that, due to that, the trans is getting a false indication that you are trying to shift the gears. You adjust that by means of the shift cable to make sure the shift in the cabin is in its detent position in park when the trans shift rod is fully rotated forward by hand to its 'stop' position. There is a screw on the lever of the trans' vertical shift rod through which the cable passes in the engine compartment. Have a helper move the shifter in the cabin to locate the lever while you watch. Loosen that screw that clamps the cable in position (after putting the shifter in park), on the shift rod lever and rotate the lever on the vertical shift rod as far forward as it will go, and while holding it there, tighten the cable clamp screw.
Another possibility is that one of you engine mounts is fatigued so that when you accelerate the engine moves position sufficiently to rotate the shift rod lever and take you out of gear. So check for excess motion of the engine fore and aft by revving it up and down while in neutral, and watch to see if the engine moves excessively when you start it up.
I hope that cable adjustment resolves your problem, or that you find the engine mount needs to be replaced as those are not expensive. But if not, keep seeking a fault code from time to time as that is the only way to know where you need to look for the solution to a trans problem. The "donE" is an indication that there are no codes currently.  
You could go to a reliable independent transmission shop (not a chain-type which is pre-inclined to sell you on a 'rebuild') and ask them to go with you for a 'road test' and see what they experience and suggest.
Roland