QuestionThe car in question is a 2000 Chry Sebring jxi Conv. The remote for the door lock doesn't work right. You can lock the doors but not unlock also the remote trunk doesn't work . If you lock the door with the remote and try to use the key to open it than it locks again and if you get it to stop locking and open the door the alarm sounds. If you remote lock and use the key to unlock at the passenger it's fine . If you try to lock the doors with the key from the driver side the doors lock and unlock as you are removing the key. My wife was in a accident about a year ago and the driver door was involved , she thinks the problem started right after the repairs if that helps .
AnswerHi James,
The remote trunk unlock is powered by circuit breaker no. 1 in the fuse box behind the left end-cap of the dash. Try resetting that to begin.
On the remote working only to lock the doors, let us set that aside until the key locks are working right, it might resolve itself.
The door key lock has a two-position switch which is differentiated by having a different size resistor in the 'lock' and the 'unlock' positions. It has 2 wires: a pink wire that has 12V on it all the time, and a wire that goes back to the body control module located behind the left side of the dash, in fact behind the fuse box there.
I suspect that either one of those two wires is flaky, or the plug-in to the door switch is loose at the switch, or that there is a flaky disconnector where the wires that come out of the door and join the wires that go to the body control, etc. My suggestion would be that the two harnesses that come out of the door and go into the pillar be followed behind the panel at the pillar to locate the brown 16-pin disconnect which carries the wires of interest be located and disconneted. Then measure with an ohmmeter placed between the pink wire on pin 2 and white/dark green wire on pin 11 of the connector half that goes into the door. With the lock in neutral it should read infinite ohms, and then when you move the key to either the lock or the unlock position you should read a finite and steady but different resistance value. Try shaking the harness and manipulating the key while reading in either position to see if the reading is steady or not. If it isn't, then the cause of the flaky connection will have to be investigated by flexing the harness and removing the panel on the inside of the door and checking the 2 wires inside the door and those wires at the door lock proper on pins 1 and 4 of its 4-wire plug.
If this part of the circuit looks solid then I would check that the 12 volt supply on pin 2 of the other half (which you disconnected) of the same connector is solid when you shake its harness, and that the dark green/white on pin 11 is solidly connected to pin 8 of the black 20-pin plug at the body control module.
Let me know how it works out.
Roland
PS Sorry for the delay but I just found your question in the 'pool' to which it had been referred by the other expert. Please 'rate' my answer, and where you see the question about 'volunteer of the month' please consider giving a 'yes' answer. Thanks
