QuestionQUESTION: Hi
I have the 2.5L engine. My car runs perfectly until a strange problems hits me out of nowhere that I cannot seem to figure out. While I am driving along at any speed, the RPM gauge will suddenly drop to zero, yet the car is still running. I LOSE COMPLETE CONTROL OF GAS PEDAL. No matter how much I push the gas it doesn't change anything. The car is slowing down as if I let off the gas. There is no check engine light. This usually goes on for a few seconds until the RPM gauge jumps up to normal and everything becomes totally fine again.
This has gone on for the past year and yesterday was at its worst. I was approaching a stop sign when this happened again. Except this time, the car died instead of going back to normal. I sit at the stop sign trying to start it back. It whirled over but wouldn't even attempt to fire. I tried for like a whole minute and then all of a sudden it started right up perfectly and I drove away as usual. There is never a code stored so I cannot seem to find anything.
I am familiar with this car's limp mode and supposedly if anything happens with the TPS, MAP, and various sensors, the car will still run but the check engine light will come on. I tested this theory by unplugging those sensors, Yes, the light came on but the car ran fine. So it leads me to think they arent the problem. The ignition components are fairly new but they came from AutoZone.
I do believe the one thing that makes this problem seem different than your typical stall is the fact that I lose all control of the gas pedal when it happens. Its like something is draining the life out of the car until it lets go.
ANSWER: Hi Joe,
That sounds very much like your ignition switch is loosing one of its connections when the key is in the 'run' position. If you have a voltmeter on board and it dies on you, before touching the switch and assuming the check engine light is "off" measure for 12V on fuse 7 or 8, and on fuse 18, 19 or 20 which are two sets of fuses that are powered on by different sections of the switch. If one or the other is cold, then that is why. You could try spraying electronic circuit cleaner inside the existing switch to see if you can improve the contacts or replace it. That is my suggestion to begin. If the engine dies with the ignition 'on' the check engine will come 'on'. Because you said it doesn't that strongly suggests that the ignition switch contacts are behaving as if they are not 'closed'.
Roland
PS Please 'rate' my answer. Thank you.
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QUESTION: I checked what you suggested but everything checks okay. I actually replaced the switch with a new one 1 1/2 years ago. Not sure what else it could be.
ANSWER: Hi Joe,
Did you check the voltages on the fuses when the engine had died and the check engine light 'off' but the key still in the run position? I assume the check engine light comes 'on' when you turn the key to the run posiiton, correct? If the fuses are powered but the light is off, then you need to check voltage to the pcm at pin 9 which gets its voltage from fuse #8. With power on #8 and the engine not running the check engine light should be 'on'.
Roland
PS Please let me know of any progress. Please 'rate' my answer. Thanks
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QUESTION: Actually me check engine light doesn't normally come on. Just the other day when the car stalled again, the check engine light did come on. But it turns out that it only lit up because the car died. There wasn't actually any code stored. My mistake. I tried starting it the other day and it whirled over many times and just would not start. I gave up. But when I went back 30 minutes later, the car started right up.
Whatever is causing the car to stall is becoming more prominent. I don't think the ignition is the cause. Its a new switch and doesn't seem to cause any problems. It seems more like a failing coil or something. But thats new too!! LOL.
AnswerHi Joe,
If there are no codes, then we have to get back to basics: do you hear the fuel pump run when you turn the key to the run position for about 1-2 seconds and then fall silent? That verifies that the pump works, so check for that sound when it won't start.
Second, have you checked for spark when it won't start?
Third, have you checked the egr valve to see if it might be stuck slightly ajar? That will cause a too lean mixture to sustain an idle condition.
Any of those three will cause the car to die/not start as you describe.
Check those out and/or right back if you need more details.
Roland
PS Please 'rate' my answer and consider a 'yes' where you see the question about 'expert of the month'.
Thanks
