QuestionHello again Ronald,
I've tested the dark green/orange wire and it shows 12v when the engine is cranked.
The other two tests you told me to do i'm uncertain if I did them correctly.
The first one where I need test the tower of the coil I did by inserting a screwdriver into the tower because it was too deep for my probes to reach. I put one of the probes on the metal of the screwdriver and the other against the body of the distributor. This is where i'm not sure because I'm not sure if you meant the body of the actual coil (which i have to take out to do I imagine), or the distributor's body.
At any rate, I did the test against the distributor's body and got 8,5000 ohms.
The other test was to probe the dark green 12v connector against the 6th pin of the 6 pin connector cable which is black. I got 15.5 ohms out of that
I tested the rotor for continuity and it look's fine.
I do have one question though.
I've noticed that the distributor cap has a long post that goes into the tower of the coil and transfers the pulse to the rotor by some sort of metal rail that goes through the inside of the plastic of the cap. Must there be continuity from the post to the center smaller post of the cap?
Please let me know if that sounds right to you.
I really appreciate your time and knowledge,
-Pete
Hi Pete,
You need to also show 12V on the dark green/orange wire that is attached to the other plug at the distributor while you are cranking it over, so check to be sure that is present by pulling that single wire plug and measuring between its pin and battery - post or a chassis ground. It will be there for about 1 second then you turn the key to 'run', drop out, then return when you start cranking. That would be the 'final proof' that the sensor is doing its 'thing'. The only other possibilities then for no spark would be a bad rotor (measure between the rotor tip and the rotor button to assure continuity of the connection) or that the spark coil is bad. The resistance between the tower of the coil and its metal body should be about 12,000 ohms, and the resistance between 12V wire's socket of the 2-pin plug and pin 6 or the 6-pin plug socket of the distributor should be about 0.5 ohms.
Good work on showing the cam sensor is pulsing. Now finish out the rest of the distributor testing as shown above.
Roland
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More questions? Ask a "Follow-up". If I am shown as "unable to take questions" try again in an hour or so as I add opportunities to ask a question, one-at-a-time, throughout the day, as my other activities allow.
AnswerHi Pete,
The results that need to be rechecked is the measurement between the 12v socket of the 2-wire plug and the pin 6 socket of the 6-wire plug. It has to be less than an 1.0 ohm or it would appear to be an issue with the primary winding of the coil. So check that and be sure your meter is zeroed when you touch the leads together.
On the distributor cap, yes there should be a definite electrical continuity but it could be either of a very low resistance like 0 ohms or it could be several thousand ohms, I just don't happen to have any specs on that. (There are some set-ups where the resistance is several thousand ohm in the rotor itself, so I wouldn't be surprised if you find that high reading in the cap interconnection instead). The only way of knowing would be to compare to a new cap (which an auto parts store might let you measure before you opt to buy it).
If the primary winding won't show a reading near 1 ohm it means that the spark voltage is going to be way low (if it is 15.5 ohms it might be about 20 times too low), which is a reason why you have no spark.
Roland
