QuestionQUESTION: Hi,
I recently got into an accedent causeing me to replace the whoe front end, taking off the bumper and side panels. in doing so i had to remove some groun d wire which i have all put back. i also needed to change out the power steering module. (the wheel turning the pully system was missing.) i replaced the power steering module and now wont start, can you help me?
ANSWER: Hi Brandon,
Do you hear the fuel pump run for about 2 seconds when you turn the key to the 'run' position?
When you crank it over do you hear the injectors pulse? (the fuel pump should also run then so listen for that as another sign that you have voltage available for those). Also check for spark by pulling one of the plug caps, insert the tip of an insulated handle screwdriver to contact the internal wire, then hold the cap and driver with two hands and the shaft of the driver 1/4" from a metal surface on the engine while a friend cranks it over while you watch for a spark to jump across the gap, which would verify that you are getting spark.
What is the no start symptom: no starter action, absolutely no sign of starting, start and die after a couple of seconds, or tries to start but won't catch or run accept for a moment?
I would try the ignition key:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the check engine light which remains "on" to see it begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pasue. Then repeat to assure an accurate set of flash counts. Group the counts in pairs in the order of appearance to form two-digit numbers which are fault codes. The last code is always 55 which means 'end of readout'. Other codes will tell us what to look for as the reason for the no start.
Let me know what you find and well go from there. Mention which size engine you have as well.
Roland
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QUESTION: ok, sorry for the delay, but everytime i tried to post it said you were busy, i heard the fuel pump, the injectors are pulsing. the spark is all good. The no start symptom is : tries to start but wont catch" And i tried the ignition thing but it doesnt work for my car. I had to take off the computer once to repair body damage if that is an issue. The car is a 3.3 V6.
AnswerHi Brandon,
Without fault codes I would be sending you on binge to throw parts at the car hoping to hit the bulls-eye.
You need to get a fault code readout. Does the check engine light work, and does it stay on when the key is in the 'on' position with the engine not running after you do 'on-off-on-off-on and leave on in 5 seconds or less elapsed time'? If not but the light does work, then try to do it quicker than 5 seconds; if the light doesn't work at all then the bulb is burned out and you will need to remove the cluster to replace it to get the fault codes.
The fact that you are getting fuel pump, spark, and injectors tells me that the ecm is working and that the 2 position sensors are working. That is good.
It might be that your egr valve is sticking ajar, leaning out the mixture and causing a no start for that reason. You will find it located under the throttle body bolted into a small pipe that runs from the side of the right exhaust manifold back toward the rear of the engine. It has a round top and and a flange between the body (bolted to the pipe) and the round top. Inside that flange you will see the valve stem with a circumferential slot. Put the tip of a screwdriver in the slot and test that the internal spring-action is closing the valve to a dead stop. If it is not moving freely then squirt some WD-40 on the stem where it enters the valve body and move the stem some more to free-up the action.
I hope that is the issue and that it will start. Anything that involves replacing parts is a waste of money until you get a fault code readout.
Roland
