QuestionQUESTION: My dodge caravan 1995 is keeping blowing the fuse #16 ignition feed when push the gas pedal if the caravan is in the neutral can stay on but when you put the gears D and give some gas is when the fuse blow up
ANSWER: Hi Daniel,
There are 4 possible engines for that year in the mini-van so I can't be certain what is going on without knowing which engine you have. So far though I don't see a reason that stepping on the gas would blow the fuse. Does it do that both in D and in park/neutral/reverse gear or only in D. Are you sure it only happens when you step on the gas. What if you try to step very lightly on the gas, does it still blow?
That fuse powers up the engine computer, transmission computer, the torque converter lockup clutch, the exhaust gas recirc valve solenoid, the anti-lock brake module, and the park/neutral safety switch to operate the back-up lamps. It could be that stepping on the gas causes the egr solenoid to to be energized and short the fuse but it seems like a long shot. In any case, try to determine what happens if you start it in neutral then shift to D without passing the R position and see if that still blows the fuse. If not, then there is a problem with the R circuit. You may have to unplug the egr, the backup lamp relay, the trans computer, the abs module (trying these one at a time) to see which one when disconnected allows the fuse to not blow. Or you can measure the resistance to ground from the cold side of the fuse socket (with the fuse removed) and then watch for what happens to the reading on the meter when you disconnect various things, step on the gas, or shift the gears. What ever causes the reading to drop to 0 ohms is causing the fuse to blow. Give it some thought, try some things, then write back with the results and also tell me which size engine is in the car.
Roland
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: this is Daniel well the engine is 3.0 and the problem is every time after I replace the fuse if I don't put it in gear the minivan doesn't blow the fuse but every time when I put it in gear and I give it some gas slowly work but as soon is I give the gas faster everything shut down I replace 20 fuses I replace the neutral safety switch and still the same
AnswerHere are the devices that draw on that fuse:
powertrain controller, pin 9, though this is an unlikely cause of a short circuit due to stepping on the gas
high speed fan relay and high speed fan ground relay:the actuation coils, unlikely
low speed fan relay: the actuation coil, unlikely
back-up lamp relay: the actuation coil, unlikely
ac compressor clutch relay:the actuation coil, unlikely
antilock brake system module: unlikely
automatic shutdown relay: actuation coil, unlikely
transmission torque converter lock-up solenoid: unlikely but try disconnecting it, located at
the side of the trans facing the front of the van, single dark blue/white wire at a socket that
is closest to the engine.
data link connector in engine compartment: a socket for hooking up a readout box, unlikely but located in front of the driver side strut tower, check for any shorts of the wires
exhaust gas recirculation valve solenoid: a possibility, dark blue/white wire on egr solenoid transducer located near egr valve directly above the exhaust pipe connecting the front to the rear exhaust manifolds
evap/purge solenoid: a possibility:dark blue/white and pink/black wire located on a bracket attached to the right engine mount, covered by a rubber boot. Under the boot you find the word "top" on its top part.
That is alot of devices. The most likely are ones that are related to rpm/vacuum changing that occurs when you step on the gas:
I would begin by unplugging the wires from all three solenoids and see if it still blows. If not then attach one at a time to see which one blows it. If so, then remove the three fan and a/c clutch relay and the back-up lamp relay and see if that stops the blowing. If not then it has to be the pcm or tcm or abs module but the engine may not run without the pcm or tcm so that would be hard to test by stepping on the gas. Another possibility is that one of the dark blue/white wires that run to each of the devices I have listed, has a worn spot in its insulation so that when the motor moves slightly as the result of being revved the bare spot touches body metal. So with the engine running try flexing all the harnesses nearby to the all the devices while the engine is running.
I will be very interested to learn what the cause is! I haven't heard of it before.
Roland
