QuestionQUESTION: Hey Roland I have read many many topics in regards to this issue most of which you and Kevin wrote. And mine seems a little different from them all. Heres the scoop, (ill try and make it short)
I have a Chrysler LHS 1999. V6 3.5L. 135k It has been jerking when slowing down almost before a complete stop it will jerk. I had it tested here recently and it is not downshifting into 1st gear it is defaulting into second. ( read from you about this) Also it doesn’t seem to bump/jerk as bad the first couple minutes of driving until its warmed up. Unlike some other articles I have read my car is not in limp mode.
My car read out from turning the key stated i had these problems. P1684, and P0700. When i went to a transmission shop today they gave me this more detailed reading.. Code errors : 0731, 1775, and 1784.
I just went out and replaced both speed sensors in the car which seemed to take car of P0700 (at least when i check for codes in the car. although this might be because i unhooked the battery and from what I have heard will take 5+ times until the P0700 code pops up again.) Also the sensor that was toward the trunk of the car had a slight build up of silver stuff around the male end that fit in the transmission. ( not sure if that’s important but looked odd….)
Regardless my car is still bumping and im not sure what to do next. It seems its something electrical as it is not in limp mode and I can travel above 20mph... The places I have taken it too all just say replace the transmission which cost more than the car is worth…. But I was thinking why would it drive fine in 2nd, 3rd, 4th, without a hiccup if it was bad… Also wouldn’t it go into limp mode if the transmission was going out? Thanks so much, I need help greatly on what plan of action to take....
ANSWER: Hi Casey,
After briefly reviewing the transmission diagnostic manual it appears to me that your problem is centered on the torque converter clutch switch or the solenoid valve which actuates the switch. The jerk occurs because the torque converter clutch is latched when it shouldn't be, i.e., it is supposed to operate in high gear at road speeds so as to eliminate slippage of the torque converter so as to achieve greater fuel economy and engine braking when needed, but it has to unlatch when you slow down or it will be like driving a manual trans and not putting in the clutch when you slow down and then the engine rpm drops below idle speed. It could either be the clutch switch is hanging up, or the hydraulic valve that actuates it is sticking, or the electrical circuit for the low/reverse pressure switch sense circuit is electrically faulty, or even the transmission control relay circuit or the relay itself might be faulty. These possibilities, if true, may also explain the 0731 (ratio error in 1st gear) which otherwise is a sign of internal clutch wear prompting consideration of a rebuild.
There is a rather detailed diagnostic approach outlined in the manual for the 1775 code that would possibly diagnose the problem as being short of requiring a rebuild (such as an electrical issue or a problem that would require only cleaning/replacing the solenoid box on the side of the transmission only (doesn't require removal/rebuild). If you have a knowledgeable independent trans shop that would want to go through that diagnosis but doesn't have the document I would be pleased to xerox copy and postal mail those 4 pages and 2 pages of the trans wiring diagrams to you. Just give me a postal mailing address.
In the meantime, on a chance, you could try switching out the transmission control relay in the powerbox under the hood with an identically numbered relay in the box to see if the relay were the problem. It is the 3rd relay counting from the inboard edge of the box.
Roland
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QUESTION: Hey Roland thanks so much for the info. I will try to replace the transmission control relay and see what that does. Also if possible can you email me that document if not i will send you a fax number to get the pages, or i can give you a mailing address. Would you like for me to post the mailing address here?
I am going to a shop tomorrow for the Solenoid switch, I have had one shop that said they think it is the solenoid switch ( they were the only shop that suggested that, all the others suggested a full transmission rebuild.) I will be showing them our discussion as well.
AnswerI tried to make copies today but find Columbus Day closure at both shops. I'll try again, but am expecting heavy rains here in the SF Bay area tomorrow so may not be able to do it until Wednesday. I will copy 10 sides so after you get the pages if you would care to send me four 42-cent stamps to cover my costs that would be most appreciated. My address will be on the envelope.
I believe that the tests will tell you if the solenoid switch valve which is a part in the valve body proper (as shown in what I will send you). If the tests suggest that is the problem then that body can be removed and the valve repaired/body replaced without removal and rebuilding of the trans, which would be a considerable savings so try and avoid having to do that.
Roland
