QuestionQUESTION: I have '93 chrysler concorde, sometimes when I try and start the car it is fine other times it will start and I have no gauges and it will drive but the transmission will but stuck in one gear (it will go into park, reverse and drive but in drive it will not shift thru the gears. then there are time where it wont start at all, turn the key and nothing, no guages, no cranking but there is power inside the car, radio, lights all that work. Is this a bad ECM or chassis brain/computer? please help
ANSWER: Hi Al,
I suspect these are not explained by a single issue.
The no gauges/drive in 2nd gear only sounds like an issue with the digital data bus which connects together the engine, transmission, instrument cluster, body computer. The no cranking may just be that the gear shift lever is slightly off-center in the park/neutral position so try moving it slightly to see if that restores the crank function.
I would do a fault code readout using the ignition key:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on", doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the check engine light, which remains 'on', to see it begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat to assure an accurate set of counts. Tell me the flash counts in order of appearance and we can go from there about the data bus problem/trans in 'limp' mode issue.
Roland
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QUESTION: I will give that a try tonight, but it's more than just no cranking, you turn the key and it's just dead no cranking, no guages except I have radio and lights, windows and blower, oh you cant change air/heat settings. When the car does start with not gauges, sometimes it will all just start working as your driving. If can get a code scanner, that should help right?
thanks for you help
ANSWER: It might be a section of the ignition switch is flaky when you have no response. A code scanner would have to be an OBD I type and you would want the Chrysler data link connector (6 pins/three on a side rectangular configuration) which is probably going to a used DRB II) You can get some useful codes however via the ignition key. You will probably need to do some circuit testing when you exhibit the problem as well due to it being intermittent.
Roland
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QUESTION: I tried using the ignition to get a code read out but I had no dash lights at all, no engine light nothing. After trying several times I got the engine light to come on but when I tried to turn the key again all lights were out again. Should I start with replacing the ignition switch? Should I replace whole ignition or just the switch part?
AnswerHi Al,
To verify whether the switch is bad, just check the following fuses when the switch is in the run position: 7, 10, 14 located in the box behind the dash (remove left end cap for access). Those are three of many fuses, each supplied by one of the three sections of the switch that have to get power to run the car. If any don't show voltage, then you need a new 'ignition switch' (which is not part of the the key/lock cylinder). It is cylindrical in shape and mounted on the opposite side of the column where it is moved by a rod that is attached to the end of the lock cylinder. You might want to buy the replacement first so you can see it and understand how it fits. Remove the tilt lever screw and lever, remove the shrouds, remove the multi-function switch, put the key lock in the 'run' position, remove its electrical plug, remove the screws that hold it to the column. Separate it from the column. When installing, align the key lock to mesh with the slot in the switch. You might want to disconnect the battery before starting all this so as to minimize the chances of shorting something to ground and blowing fuses up front under the hood.
Roland
