QuestionI have a 96 Chrysler Sebrig 2-door coupe. I purchased this car from a guy who could not get it to start. He replaced the crank sensor, computer, distributor, egr, plugs, wires, baterry, & fuel pump. The car turns over but won't start. I thought it may have something to do with the factory anti-theft because the 3-wire lock sensor on the driver door was broke & the security system was not arming. I replaced it, the anti-theft arms now, but the car still does not stop. I did the self- diagnostic, key on-off-on-off-on & got 12(battery disconnected), 42(fuel pump relay or ASD relay), 42 again (fuel level sending unit), 24 (TPS), 61(MAP), &55(end)... The 2 42 codes & having a new fuel pump as well as distributor & crank sensor that would cause the ASD to activate are leading me to believe there's either a bad relay or a wiring problem with the fuel pump. I called a dealership & was told the 96 coupes do not have a fuel pump relay or ASD relay, but to me that doesn't make sense?? The repair manual-Haynes- says they're located in the fuse box under the hood in front of the computer box but there's no relays in it, on high amp fuses & no fuse for it in the kick panel fuse box...any help you could give me would be greatly appreciated! Thank you
Answer
Hi Eli,
The manuals I have show there to be both a fuel pump and and ASD relay, mounted on the firewall of the engine compartment directly in front of the driver. There are 3 relays side by side. The middle one is the ASD, the inboard is the fuel pump, and the outboard is the etax relay.
I hadn't heard that a double 42 implicated the fuel level sender as well. I wonder if you might want to disconnect the battery, which cancels all the codes except the 12 and 55, and then try and start it and see what the fresh codes are. If you suspect a relay, and if the etax relay is identical in number to the ASD or the fuel pump relay then you could try switching out with each of those. If the ASD and fuel pump relays are good you should hear the fuel pump run for about a second when you turn the key to the run position. Listen under the rear of the car to hear the pump in the tank. But it only will run momentarily, then run again when you crank the engine over with the starter but the noise of that will probably drown out the pump motor noise.
When you have that sorted out, you would want to check the TPS (code 24) and its wires, located at the throttle body. It gets pretty hot there so you may find insulation melted. The sensor itself has 3 pins, in a row, and the middle pin is the signal wire. There is a constant resistance between pins 1 and 3, and as you move the throttle you should see a smooth change in the resistance between pin 2 and pin 1, and as well between pin 2 and pin 3, with no discontinuities. And discontinuity or melted wire is probably the cause of the problem.
The MAP sensor (code 61) voltage being out of range could be due to a failed sensor or again an open wire. It has a three wire connector, arranged as 1/2 side by side with 3 below. 3 should show ground on the plug. With the ignition switch 'on' the voltage on 2 should be 4.7 to 5.2V. 3 is the signal wire and its reading would be dependent on the local barometric pressure with the engine off and the rpm and throttle opening with the engine running. That sensor is located on the front of the intake manifold and has wire colors black/green, green/yellow, and yellow/black on pins 1,2,3, respectively. Any/all of those sensors could explain the no start.
Those are some places to start. Let me know what you learn.
Roland
PS: Both the MAP and the TPS use 5V as the 'power' source for their signals. I would check the green/yellow wires at those sensors to see if they show 5V, and if not then I would look for a short to ground somewhere along the wire that originates at pin 61 of the PCM. That could well explain both of those codes.
