QuestionQUESTION: for the last couple of days the car has been dropping RPM's when i slow down, now today when i go to slow down the RPM's drop all the way out and the engine shuts off. the only way i have been able to keep the car running when slowing down is put it in neutral and push the gas to keep the RPM's up. i don't belive it is a fuel problem (i could be wrong) because it starts and idles just fine it drives fine its just when i slow down. any help would be greatly appreciated thank you. if you need any more information let me know.
ANSWER: Hi Troy,
First see if the engine controller has noticed a problem and stored it in its memory as a fault code. Use the ignition key:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch odometer window to see if the mileage is replaced by a 4-digit number prefixed by a P. If so, let me know what it is as that would be a fault code that explains what might be wrong.
Second, it may be that the egr valve is sticking slightly ajar, without setting a fault code. The first thing I would do is check the mechanical function of the egr valve which is located along a pipe that runs from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car) to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle). That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve by a sort of saddle. Inside the open saddle you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion.
Roland
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QUESTION: ok i did the key thing and nothing poped up on my dash, my odometer is not digital. and after reading your description i cant seem to find the vavle is it on the front of the motor or by the firewall? and is it by the throttle or other side of motor? thanks for your help if you have a picture or diagram that would be helpful
ANSWER: Hi Troy,
The Lxi is the coupe model and that, you are correct, is not readout for faults by the odometer but rather the check engine light. Thanks for reminding me.
Check for fault codes using the ignition switch:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the 'check engine' light, which remains "on", to see it begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause, then repeat the process to be sure you have an accurate set of flash counts. The last two sets are always 5 in each. Then write back telling me the counts in the order of appearance. Then we will have some idea of what to do.
For the egr, look for a small pipe that branches off the exhaust manifold and runs toward the throttle body at the rear of the motor. There you will find the valve, mounted sideways in the pipe. You may want to remove the air intake tube to find it located below that.
Roland
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QUESTION: ok well the check engine light is not on and it did not flash when i did it either. and i found the egr valve but where is the whole that im supposed to put the screwdriver at?
AnswerHi Troy,
If you have the key in the 'on' position, the check engine light should show up, until you actually start the car. If not, then the bulb is burned out.
On the egr, the part in the pipe I call the body. There is a round black top that has a vacuum hose attached. Between the two parts is a open area that is flanged. Inside the flange is the valve stem (rod) and that rod has a groove that goes around the stem. That groove is where you put the tip of a screwdriver and use is to move the stem back and forth. Where the stem enters the body is where you would lubricate it with WD-40. If that doesn't solve the problem then get a code readout either via the check engine light, or go to an Autozone parts store where they will likely do it with a plug-in reader for free. A shop will otherwise do it for a charge of maybe $40.
Roland
