Chrysler Repair: 4.7L hard start, mail thanks, definition of insanity

Question
QUESTION: I saw your earlier reply on the water pump r&r for a 2.7. I am getting ready to start this project for a friend that simply can't afford the shop rate to do this job. I have been working on cars for over 30 yrs so I feel fairly confident in my abilities. What resources would you recommend to accomplish this task? I understand that it is a bit more detailed than the standard belt replacement on a civic or escort or even the older 3.0 dodge V6 (all of which I have done) Any help would be great.

ANSWER: Hi Alan,
I have the '03 manual and can xerox copy the pages about replacing those parts and postal mail them to you. You can reimburse me after you get the pages, with postage stamps. The cost would be about $ 1.50. Let me know a postal mailing address. There are many pitfalls so you would want to have the manual pages to avoid them.
Roland

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QUESTION: Roland, got the mail, thanks again & I am sending the stamps today. Will let you know how it went.
I have another question if you don't mind. I have an 01 Durango with the 4.7 in it & it will not start right up. It usually takes about 30 seconds of cranking. I have changed the fuel pump 4 times now using the Delphi brand. When it does finally fire up there's a very gassy smell from the exhaust. It is not throwing any codes & you can hear the fuel pump kick on when the key is turned. I took it to the local dealership (tough for me to do as I have never in 30 years had to pay for a car repair) & hadthem diagnose it after i failed. They said it looked like it was loosing pressure from the fuel pump. I warrantied the Delphi, it started up the first 2 or 3 times (which is what it did each & every time i replaced the pump) then went back to having to repeatedly crank it. A couple of weeks ago it sat for about 3 days & fired right up but besides that if it sits for more than like 5 mins it's back to the same old thing. As one definition of insanity is "trying the same thing over & over & hoping for a different outcome" applies here I was just wonderng if you had any other suggestions.
Thanks, Alan.

Answer
Hi Alan,
Have you checked for any fault codes:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" using the ignition key and then watch the odometer window to see if the mileage changes to show 4-digit fault codes prefixed with a P? Let me know if you get such a number and we'll go from there. Other than that, measuring the fuel pressure in the fuel rail might disclose a problem with the fuel pressure regulator.
The other part to check would be the egr valve which may be sticking slightly ajar which then makes for a too lean mixture for idle. I am not familiar with the specifics of that engine but look for the valve somewhere near the throttle body where you will find it to be supplied by a small diameter pipe from one of the exhaust manifolds. If the valve has a visible stem with a slot, insert the tip of a screwdriver in the slot and try moving the stem back and forth. See if the internal spring-action closes the valve to a dead stop. If not, spray the stem where it enters the valve with WD-40 and work the stem back and forth some more.
Roland