Chrysler Repair: 95 2.5L dies intermittently, crankshaft position sensor, exhaust gas recirculation valve

Question
QUESTION: im wondering why my car keeps dying its a 1995 cirrus 2.5 24 valve and some days it will just fine and then others it will die every light and then it will just die sometimes and woun't start and then i let it sit for a day or to and then it will fire up for a lil while  then die again   and then some times it will go for a couple days and give me no problem do you have any idea what it is?  this is garth

ANSWER: Hi Garth,
I suspect that one of the two engine position sensors is on its last legs. To find out, let's check for whether the engine controller has detected the problem and stored in its memory a fault code. Take the ignition key, turn it:'on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the check engine light, which remains 'on',  to begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat the process to be sure you have the counts accurately. Then combine the counts in pairs in the order of appearance to form the two-digit fault codes. The last such code will always be 55, which is the code number for 'end of readout'. Write back with the other codes and we'll go from there. The code 11 says the crankshaft position sensor is failing, the code 54 says the camshaft sensor is going. You can also go the www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html for a code list.
Roland

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QUESTION: ok i did that and i got 12 and then 55

Answer
Hi Garth,
The 12 says the battery supply to the computer was disconnected sometime in the past 50-100 key cycles. If you have knowingly loosened a battery clamp in that time frame then check your clamp to be sure they are tight. The 55 just means end of readout.
The other component that can cause the engine to die when slowing to a stop or when idling and also make it hard or impossible to start is the exhaust gas recirculation valve. The first thing I would do is check the mechanical function of the egr valve which is located along a pipe that runs from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car) to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle). That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve by a sort of saddle.  Inside the open saddle you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion. Also check all the rubber vacuum hoses associated with the valve and a nearby vacuum solenoid valve. If the valve seems to open (against the action of a spring) and close firmly by the spring action when using the screwdriver blade to facilitate the motion, then you should be able to now start the engine. You can, once it is idling, check that the valve stem moves when you rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle. If it still won't start, then removing and cleaning the interior of the valve, or buying a new one if it seems too crudy and corroded inside, is the next step to getting the engine to start.
Roland