Chrysler Repair: Engine shudder, gear slipping: 96 Sebring convertible, chrysler sebring convertible, crank sensor

Question
I have a 1996 Chrysler Sebring convertible 2.4L DOHC (automatic engine). It has 87,000 miles. I recently took it to a shop because I was in an accident and my car was acting strange. It would jerk (upon acceleration) at about 3 rpm (when I approached 50-55 mph). My car would also shut off after about 15 min of driving. After running diagnostics, they found that there was a leak in my air intake manifold and my crank sensor was damaged. I was told that was the reason for the jerking was because of the leak and the shutting off was because of the damaged sensor. They replaced the parts and I also had them do a tune up. My car ran fine after having that work done. Actually, they did not even charge me for the replacement of the crank sensor because I had them replace that (due to the same problems) just 3 months prior to this visit. (Still I have spent about $800 in repairs for this car). Recently, it has been shuddering (usually while idling) at various times. It is also hesitating/slipping when I accelerate (around 1-2 rpm or 20-30 mph). I drive about 25 miles to and from work. It does the slipping once in the morning (on the way to work) and sometimes in the evening. It shudders (while idling) about every other day. I remember experiencing the same slipping and hard shifting before my first visit to the repair shop. I just want to figure out what the real problem is and be done with it already. Is it my transmission? Do I need a fluid flush? (Though Chrysler does not recommend it until 100k miles) If my crank sensor is damaged (again), why did it happen (again)? I noticed that there is a small (dime size) amount of transmission fluid where I park. I have not changed the tranny fluid or had it flushed since I had the car (I have put about 12,000 miles on it since purchased).

Can someone help me please?!


Answer
Hi Nicole,
There are several ways to go on this. First you could try the ignition key to see if you can get any fault codes that might be stored in the engine controller. Turn the key:'on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in five seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the check engine light, which remains 'on', to begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat the process to verify the counts, and again if the counts don't agree. Then let me know the counts in order of appearance.
Then you could get the fault codes for the transmission by going to an Autozone parts store where they will plug in a code reader to a jack that is under the dash by the steering column. They will tell you of any 4-digit code numbers prefixed with a P. Ask what the code means and what they recommend. Then let me know the numbers and what they said.
Finally, the shuddering at idle may be due to a problem with a part called the exhaust gas recirculation valve (egr). The egr valve on the 2.4 is located just in front and below the oil filler cap on the engine. It has two pipes: one coming from the exhaust manifold on the firewall side of the engine compartment, and the other going to the throttle body where the incoming air enters the intake manifold.  You will see a round fitting on the top and a saddle that supports it with openings, inside which you will see a metal rod with a slot that moves back and forth horizontally. That rod is the valve stem which is attached to the valve inside the main housing which opens and closes the connection between the two pipes.
One reason why an engine behaves as yours does is that the valve may be sticking ajar. So if you take a flat-tip screwdriver and insert it in the slot you can lever the valve stem out (againt spring resistance) and in to check that it moves easily. It is helpful to use a spray can of pentrating fluid (WD-40) to spray the valve stem where it enters the valve so as to loosen up any stickiness. The valve should close tightly by internal spring-action against its stop when the engine is at rest, so that the valve is fully closed when you then try to start the engine. Otherwise it will recirculate exhaust gas which dilutes the mixture excessively and prevent starting or cause rough idling.
I would not do anything yet about the trans fluid. Let's get the codes first. But check the level of trans fluid via the dipstick on the transmission itself, located on the side of the powertrain that faces the front of the car, near the driver's side of the engine compartment.
Roland