QuestionQUESTION: Sorry I confused you with my description. As you can tell I am no car expert with the exception of buying all these parts. You are right the fuse fits horizonally. Now imagine placing the fuse into the slot. That is the side I noticed what looks like burn marks where the top prong on the fuse would sit. Now go to the back side. There is a cluster of wires fitting on to the back side via plug in. When I remove that cluster there are 5 male prongs coming out the back side of the fuse junction. top = 1 on left 1 on right then a center prong then on bottom = 1 on left and 1 on right. I do not see a circuit board on the back side which makes me think it is inside the junction with fuse on outside then maybe circuit board then on back side the cluster of wires that plug in. When I take my little 12 volt tester and tough the prongs coming out the back side the ones on the left and center have no power. the one on the bottom right has power ( my light bulb lights up) but the one on the top right does not light up my bulb.
Now the blower does not work at any speed and the mechanic that installed it said it was not getting power plus he checked the resistor and no power was even getting that far.He does not know any more electrical than that. Now on the selector the button you push on the knob that turns the fan on has a center button saying AC when I push that button it lights up. On the 2nd selector where you choose where you want the air to blow. That works, you can hear as you change selections the vents opening and closing. That selector also has a buttom you can push to activate the rear window defroster. That lights up also. So I am (hoping) that does not further complicate my problem. Knowing this additional would you suggest replacing that fuse box junction so we know the circuit board which I can't see is good? Thanks for all your help you have no idea how much it means. Michael
ANSWER: I thought of an easier way to effect the fuse box repair: simply snip the dark green wire at pin #6 of the white plug and route it around to the clip for the fuse on the opposite side and secure it by using the fuse to clip it into place. No soldering needed. This would apply if there is enough wire lenth to reach, otherwise solder an extra length of #12 wire to the cut dark blue wire. But before you do anything, do inspect the fuse (or even replace it) as it might have a fatigue crack in its wire which is the same as a frank blow out of the fuse.
Hi Michael,
I follow your description about the fuse and the white plug which when removed show 5 prongs. For simplicity of identifying the prongs/wires, please look at the plug (what you called the cluster which has 5 wires. I believe that you will find numbers 1-6 etched on the plug, one for each of the wire hole (and one hole, #5 without a wire). Now here we have to be careful, as I will describe what you should find on the plug when it is inserted back in the socket, assuming that your test light has probes with sharp tips that allow you to insert them in the wires holes such as to make contact with the actual wire in the plug hole. Pin 1 should light when the ignition switch is in the 'run' position. Pin 4 should light all the time. Pin 6 should light when the ignition is in the run position. Pin 1 is bridged to pin 6 via the 30 amp fuse, #1. If that is not the case, and pin 1 lights, pin 6 doesn't light and careful visual inspection of the fuse shows it not to be blown or to have a subtle crack in its wire, then I would believe that there is a blown out trace in the circuit board between the fuse socket and pin 6. If that is the case, then you could get around the problem of no power getting to pin 6 by jumping a wire from the cold side of the fuse socket (by which I mean the side which doesn't light when the fuse is removed from its socket) to the wire on pin 6 of the white plug. That will re-establish the pathway of current to pin 6 which you will see is a dark green wire and which in fact is the supply wire to the blower motor. By "jump" I mean solder a wire to the fuse spring clip holder that is 'cold' and to the dark green wire (by removing some of its insulation and solder the jumper there. If on the other hand you find that the dark green wire is indeed showing light when the switch is in the run position, then that same wire at the blower motor should also be lit.
I would not go to the cost of replacing the entire junction block, just solder in a jumper with a simple soldering pencil and solder as I described.
I await your obervations/action report.
Roland
PS The other wires on the 5-wire plug (2 and 3) are related to the headlamp high/low circuit so this implies that this specific location is the explanation for the other gremlins that you told me about (the headlight high/low discrepency but not left/right). That being the case we need to sort that out also and maybe do some jumping with those.
Roland
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QUESTION: Last night I went back out to the car to see if I could better describe what I was seeing. In my description I was describing the plug as if it were direct to the fuse. I am glad you understood. The dark green heavy gauge wire is plugged into the pin which gets no power. If I bypass the circuit board how will that effect the body control module?
Thanks again for your help.
AnswerThe pin that gets no power is evidentally due to there being an internal break in the connection to the 30 amp fuse socket directly opposite to it on the other side of the unit. That fuse/blower motor circuit has nothing to do with the body computer. All that is going on there is that the power black/orange wire on pin 1 (that comes from the ignition switch) is routed to the fuse socket and the opposite side of the fuse socket connects to pin 6. This circuit only provides power to the blower motor. Nothing is related to the body computer.
So you just have to figure a way to reconnect the dark/green wire to the fuse clip. This assumes that the fuse isn't bad. I somehow wonder why that connection is broken and the fuse didn't blow first?
Roland
PS Interestingly, adjacent fuses 2 and 3 are providing power to the high beam of the right and left headlamps. So something going on there may explain you light issue. And your mention that you loose the wiper functions when you turn on the headlamps may be explained by the voltage in the system being dragged down (due to some sort of a short in the headlamp circuit) to too low a level for the two wiper relays that provide the high and intermittent functions to be activiated by the coils of those relays.
Is there any chance that you have or have had a water leak in the corner of the windshield that has dropped down on the fuse box and shorted together some of these internal connections?
