Chrysler Repair: 88 Dynasty; stalling, vacuum hoses, exhaust gas recirculation


Question
QUESTION: car randomly stalls sometimes restarting imediately other times it takes 5 to 10 minutes.  newest symptom is when gas pedal is pressed car accelerates slowly and sputters as if the gas is going into the engine in waves (I hope you know what I mean by that) moms boyfriend (auto knowledgable) recently changed ignition coil,thinking that would fix the stalling but it didn't. Later found pin hole in fuel line, fixed that still having same problems.  The stalling is completely random, Sometimes while at stop sign, other time wile driving.  When I start the vehicle (unless after a stall) It turns over instantly without hesitation.
Symptoms again: Random stalling, And lazy acceleration like the fuel is going in in spurts insted of steady flow.


ANSWER: Hi Robert,
Try the ignition key to get fault codes that might be stored in the computer to give us a clue. Turn it:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the check engine light, which remains 'on' to begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat the process to be sure of an accurate flash count set. Then write back with the numbers of flashes in the order of appearance and we'll go from there. I have another idea but first let me know what you see from the flashes of the check engine light. Also, tell me which engine is in the car.
Roland

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: not sure exactly the engine, but did the check engine light test and got 5 and then 5 and then light stayed off

Answer
Hi Robert,
The double 5 code just confirms that the computer looked for fault codes and found none. So more likely it is a part that is not well monitored (thus not fault code) and yet can have a serious impact on the engine function. I'll assume you have the 3.0L V-6.
My first thought is to look over the exhaust gas recirculation (egr) valve and associated control and vacuum hoses. The exhaust system has a main pipe that connects the front manifold (side of the engine next to the radiator)to the rear exhaust manifold and it runs around the rear of the engine. So locate that pipe.  The valve is bolted into that pipe and controls the exhaust gas amounts that return to the intake.  The valve has to open and close firmly and quickly or the engine will not operate well due to a mixture of fuel and air that will not allow the engine to accelerate or idle well, if the valve is not where it is supposed to be. Often it will get sticky and fail to close all the way, for example which it has to do at idle and when stepping on the gas toward full open throttle. It is controlled by a vacuum operated and electrical control solenoid mounted near by, and those vacuum hoses should be examined to make sure there is no cracked, leaking, or disconnected hose fittings. There is a vacuum operated round fitting on its top, and also a vacuum line going to an electrically operated valve closer to the engine, nearer the throttle body. Look under the round fitting (which is mounted on a saddle with openings for access to view) on the top of the valve where you will see a rod with a slot in it which is the valve stem. Take a straight blade screwdriver, insert it in the slot, and then use the driver to lever the valve up (against spring pressure) and let it return to see if it is dropping back all the way down due to spring's action and closing positively to a firm closed position. Spray WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant on the valve stem to loosen it up in that in and out motion. Check to make sure the vacuum lines are all attached and not cracked. Then warm up the engine and observe the slot to see if it goes up when you rev the engine to 2500 rpm and then drops back down fully, closing the valve, when you let the engine go back to idle rpm. Make sure that the fully down position is really down because if it is not fully closing when you let go of the accelerator and coast that will cause the engine to stall. It may be that to get it to close you'll have to unbolt it and clean out the gas flow passage past the valve, due to buildup of exhaust fumes in the valve as sticky crud deposit around the internal valve.
Let me know if that doesn't help and we'll consider some other possibilities. But the egr function can be a big detriment if it isn't in the correct position for the conditions that are needed for a good mixture, such as idling and accelerating.
Roland