Chrysler Repair: LHS Electrical Problems, battery clamps, electrical event

Question
QUESTION: I have a 2000 LHS that has just started showing electrical problems.  These all started as it got cold in WI this winter.

1.  Put key in ignition and turn.  Dash lights start bright, then cut except for OIL light which flickers in time with a ticking sound which gets faster until all the lights pop on and the car starts as normal.  This has happened 5 times in 6 weeks.  5 times when car is cold, 1 time when car had been running.  (NOTE:  When this happens, after the car starts up, the climate control is set to default and the radio also goes to the default fm station)

2.  Radio sound wavers, or volume fluctuates downward randomly and/or in time with other electrical event.  For instance if this waver or volume fluctuation shows up and I flick on my brights, that will cause a volume fluctuation.   The windshield wipers also seem to sometimes effect this volume thing.  This has shown up on two occasions both about 20-30 minutes of driving.

3.  Trac Loc/Anti-Lock breaks have died on me one time.  This was at the start of a long drive that ended with the volume problem.  The light for TRAC LOC OFF when on without me pressing the button.  This was immediately after starting (and having the starting problem described in #1.)  It was a snowy day and trac loc would not work and the anti-lock breaks also were not functioning.

4.  Last night while driving (end of 30 minutes of driving)  all of my power systems died for about 1 second while I was driving.  Lights, radio, dash, headlights...  They all came right back on and the car functioned normally.

The car has 138,000 miles on it and otherwise runs incredibly well and has been low maintenance.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Jim

ANSWER: Hi Jim,
My thoughts are that you have a system low voltage/current problem. The battery is of course less efficient as the temperature drops. How old is it compared to its warranty?
How about the battery clamps: are they shiny and tightly connected, and with some battery clamp compound at the interfaces with the posts of the battery.
How about the ground wire of the -post clamp? It is located near the power distribution box under the hood.
Those symptoms all are caused by low voltage level while operating as well as with the ignition off  (preset default of the radio, for example).
Does the charge warning light come 'on', and what about the voltage meter on the instrument cluster. Does it appear lower than normal?
It might be an alternator that is wearing out or possibly the field coil control of same which is done by the pcm.
Perhaps a fault code readout would turn up something. If there is an Autozone Parts store nearby they will often do that for free, or an independent shop will charge under $40. Write back with any 4-digit fault code numbers and we'll go from there.
Roland
PS May I ask a favor? I am competing for the honor of being the 'expert of the month'. Note the 'thank/rate' tab below where you can enter a "yes" where you see the question about a nomination for this award. Thank you.
Also, if you have a question or want more information just use the comments section of that tab. I will reply.




---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Roland,

Thanks for the quick reply.  I have never had the Charge Warning light come on and my dash does not have a voltage indicator.

My only reason for thinking it is NOT the battery is that the car either has nothing in terms of turning over, or it starts like it is a brand new battery.

I will check the battery age and post clamps and ground and post back here.

For fault codes does the engine have to be malfunctioning, or are they stored?  I ask because my problems are so intermittent.

Thanks again for the great info!

Answer
Hi Jim,
The fault codes are stored for many key on-off cycles so I wouldn't worry about that possibility. You might give the ignition key a try to see if your model would tell you some fault codes in the odometer window: "on-off-on-off-on and leave on", doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. The codes could be 2 or 4 digit numbers, replacing the mileage reading temporarily.  I am not sure if the '00 models had that access. If not, then the readout via the underdash socket is required. I'll be interested in your progress.
You are welcome, and thanks for the nomination; very much appreciated.
Roland