QuestionFor awhile my van would die at idle. It would start right back up no problem,
then it would be fine for a couple miles then it would die again. Basically
anytime I came to a stop after it was warmed up. Then one night I went to the
store came back out and it wouldn't start. It turns over jut wont start. We
tried a new distributor cap, but that didn't seem to be the problem. What
could it be and how can I check without have to spend a lot of money?
AnswerHi Dannyell,
I have a couple of suggestions: the fault code readout and the egr valve.
-you can use the ignition key to get the fault codes that might tell us what the engine controller has noticed as the possible cause of the 'no start':"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the 'check engine' light, which remains 'on', to begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat the ignition key routine and do a recount to be sure of accuracy. Then group the count numbers in pairs in the order of appearance to form the 2-digit fault codes. The last code should be 55 which means 'end of readout'. Then write me back and tell me the numbers and we'll go from there.
-the egr, one of my favorites when bad idle/no start rears its ugly head. This device is used on the 3.0 V-6 engine, which is probably what you have. I would take a look at the exhaust gas recirculation valve which is mounted in a small pipe that branches off of a large pipe that runs between exhaust exhaust manifold on the side of the engine close to the front of van, and runs around the rear of the engine to the side of the engine next to the firewall. You will see a small pipe about midway along that large pipe that branches off and goes upward to the egr valve. You will want to remove the fat air intake tube that comes from the air filter to the throttle body to see/reach it. The valve is mounted horizontally and has a valve stem (between its round vacuum actuator top and the body of the valve which is attached to the pipe) inside the flange that connects the two parts. The stem has a slot into which you can insert the tip of a flat-bladed screwdriver so as to lever the stem back and forth against spring- action which should move freely and close tightly. If the stem seems to be sticky so that stem doesn't close all the way by spring action, then you can try spraying some penetrating solvent like WD-40 on the valve stem to freeup its motion.
If the valve is sticking slightly ajar (particularly when cold) it will make for a no start such as you describe because the mixture is too dilute. It is one of the most common causes of this symptom. So see if you can find the valve and check/lubricate the stem. It may be that the interior of the valve is cruddy so that might require that it be unbolted from the pipe where it it attached and cleaned. But chances are good it will only be a sticky stem. Feel free to write back with the results and other questions you might have. Neither of these services will cost you anything if you do it yourself.
Roland
PS Msy I ask a favor? If you would use the 'thank/rate' tab below you will find a question about a nomination for 'expert of the month'. I would appreciate your putting a 'yes' there as I am competing for that recognition. Thanks in advance. You will also find a comment section there where you can tell me what you learned from the fault code readout.
Happy holidays!
