QuestionI have a 99 chrysler concorde w/ a 2.7L. My car will not start. It rolls over, and acts like it may fire, but does not. We checked the spark plugs, and there was plenty of spark. The fuel pump starts when we turn the key on, and there is a faint smell of gas. It does not smell enough to be a leak though. I have noticed in the past that the engine shudders when in drive or reverse with low RPMs ie. when pulling out of the driveway.
I have only had one problem before where the car would not start. I waited a minute and tried again and it started just fine
AnswerHi Alan,
If the pump runs for a second after you turn the key to the 'run' position, that is normal. If you don't see any signs of a leak beyond the faint smell, then I would suggest that a code readout for faults stored in the controller is the most efficient way to find out what is wrong. It may be the case that the ignition switch will produce such a readout, but I am uncertain of that. Turn the key:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the odometer window on the dash to see if it changes to show any 4-digit numbers which would be the codes. If not, then you would need to borrow or buy an OBD-II code reader and plug it into the socket that is under the dash to the left of the steering column. Once you have the codes, wright back and we'll go from there.
The stumbling upon early start up may be a sign of an egr valve that is sticking slightly ajar. It is attached to the rear of the right cylinder head. below the throttle body. That would also cause hard starting.
It gets exhaust gas from the right side exhaust manifold and feeds it into a bifurcated tube into each of the intake manifolds. It would be worth removing the valve and looking at the intake and output side of the valve for possibly being clogged so that it is stuck partially ajar. Here are the steps for its removal:
Disconnect negative battery cable
Remove air inlet tube and resonator
Remove throttle cable bracket and reposition
Remove egr tube mounting screws at intake manifold plenums
Disconnect electrical connector from solenoid
The egr valve attaches to the rear of the right cylinder head
Remove egr upper tube screws at egr valve
Remove egr valve mounting screws
Remove egr screws from egr lower tube at exhaust manifold
Remove egr and lower tube as an assembly
Clean gasket surfaces. Discard old gasket. If necessary clean egr passages.
To reinstall:
Loosely install EGR valve and lower tube, use a new gasket between tube and EGR valve
Install EGR valve to rear of chlinder head, do not tighten screws
Loosely install screws to lower EGR tube to exhaust manifold
Install rubber silicone seals on intake manifold end of
EGR tube
Install upper tube into the intake manifold being careful to be sure silicone rubber seals is correctly installed and undamaged.
Install new gasket between the EGR valve and tube and install bolts
Tighten EGR upper tube to intake manifold plenum screws to 80 inch pounds
Tighten the EGR tube's to EGR valve bolts to 95 inch pounds
Tighten EGR lower tube to exhaust manifold screws to 200 inch-pounds
Attach electrical connector
Install the throttle cable bracket to intake manifold
Isnall air inlet tube and resonator
Connect battery
Roland
PS Use the 'thank/rate' tab to get back to me without having to wait for me to be 'available' to take your question. There is a space for comments. If this answer proves to be helpful please consider entering 'yes' in the question pertaining to 'nomination'.
Hi Alan,
I hope everything works out with the no start. Please let me know by using the 'thank/rate' tab below.
While you are there, if I might ask a favor: where it asks about a 'nomination for expert of the month' I would appreciate your entering a 'yes'. I am in a close race for that honor so every vote counts!
Roland
