QuestionQUESTION: Hi Roland
You answered my son todd problem on his car todd. His problem was dated 10/7/08 limp mode on chrysler cirrus
1995 2.5 engine. I'am working on it now replaced the output
sensor on the transmission.Unable to test that since the car won,t start. You said to check the distributor coil and cap. Doing that, cap measure's ok the rotor looks fine.
remove 2 plugs from coil+dist 1 is 2 wire connector 1 wire
is all thats in it. ohmed across the terminals looks shorted.
Ohmed them 2 pins to coil tower about 7.8 ohms on each pin
should have been about 12k to 18k. Should I replace the coil+dist.
Thanks Dave
ANSWER: Hi Dave,
No, I would not change the distributor/coil without further testing and reading for fault codes. It is too expensive a part for that.
To do the resistance/voltage testing on the distributor I need to give you more detailed instructions but first have you tried for a fault code readout to see if the engine control computer may have already figured out what may be wrong?
If not use the igntion key:
"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the check engine light which should be 'on' begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat the key switching routine and do a recount to make sure you have them accurately. Then write back and tell the pulse count numbers in the order that they appeared. Then we can go from there.
Also, have you checked to see if there is spark getting to one of the spark plug caps while I helper cranks over the starter motor. Try that too and let me know. Just insert the tip of a screwdriver with a plastic handle into the spark cap so that it touches the wire inside, then hold the screwdriver/cap combo so that it is 1/4" from the cylinder head and have the helper crank for 5 seconds while you watch for a spark to jump across the gap from the shaft of the screwdriver to the cylinder head or not.
Let me know the results of that test too.
Roland
no spark to any plug also changed output sensor code 1 2 and 66 55 after changing befor 1 2 55
Hi Dave,
The 12 code says that sometime in th past 50-100 key starts the power from the battery to the engine controller was disconnected. So it would be good to pull the plugs at the controller and verify that you have 12V on pin 46 of one of the two plugs at the controller. Also verify that you get 12V on pin 20 of the other plug when you are cranking the engine. Those are the two power supplies that are needed.
The 66 says that the digital communication from the transmission or the body computers is not getting onto the newtwork. That should not prevent the car from starting but nonetheless you would do well to check the plugs at those two devices. The transcontroller is the one behind the radiator that is just in-board of the power box with the relays and fuses. The body controller is on the backside of the junction (fuse) box under the dash.
You are not yet getting an 11 or a 54 code which would point to the engine rotational sensore which are necessary to operate the spark system. So I don't thing I would do anything about the distributor or the crankshaft sensor at this point.
You could pull the 2-wire plug (with one wire) from the distributor and measure the voltage on pin 1 (the wire is colored dark green/orange) while a helper cranks the engine. See if you show 12V during a full 5 seconds of cranking or not.
Let me know what you learn, please.
Roland
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Thanks Roland_During the process I have intake manifold off
to get at distriber+coil. Removed cap+rotor and plug wires.
Did not get that 66 code until I replaced the output senser
on transmission concerning the limp mode and speedometer not working. should i put the intake maniflod back on+plugwires+dist cap+rotor and run those to voltage test
Thanks dave
ANSWER: No, looking at the single wire's voltage is just a test of the func tioning of the crank and cam sensors. I assume that the distributor is mounted, however, as is the crank sensor. Otherwise the intake manifold situation is immaterial.
Roland
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Roland_Thanks for getting back to me. What is the next step. should i check for 12v on pin 46 and 12v on pin 20.
and to do this do i need to put the cap and rotor back on the distributer. thanks dave
AnswerNo, just either remove the plugs and measure the pins of the plugs, or if you don't want to do that take a very fine straight pin and pierce through the insulation (very fine so you don't make a significant hole in the insulation which would invite corrosion). Those two pins are just wires that are current supplies from the battery (46) and the ignition switch (20) when you have that in the run position. If you have disconnected the battery recently, then that too would explain a 12 code, and you can forget doing the measurement entirely because doing that disconnect also sets the 12 code. I am more interested in verifying that the ASD relay is closing and providing 12V to the dark green/orange wire at the distributor when you are cranking it for a full 5 seconds or not.
Roland
Roland-12v on pin 46 12v on pin 20 measured socket on 2 pin plug 12 v measured pin terminal cranked engine over no volts Dave
The lack of voltage on the wire suggests that the ASD relay is not closing. That could be due to a bad relay (try exchanging it with another one) or a failure of one of the two rotational sensors to send a pulse signal to the controller (which normally would cause an 11 of a 54 code) or on a chance that the timing belt is broken (you can test that be checking that the rotor is moving when you crank).
You can also, just as a test of whether the coil and fuel and rotor etc are OK, simply temporarily jumping the ASD relay socket pins 97 to 89 (the side to side contacts) which will start the fuel pump running and also put 12V on the dark green/orange wire to the distributor, and the injectors... and then try to start the engine. If it starts then everything is OK except the ASD non-closing problem has to be fixed.
Roland
