QuestionQUESTION: i have a 99 chy cirrus that if i let it set for a day it has a hard time starting, specially if it is damp or it rains. i will have to jump it because i have to almost run the battery down while trying to start it. i have put a tune up on it, (plugs, wires, cap, rotor,) that didn't help it. it runs smoother but still hard to start. i have been told it could be the crank sensor or the distributor. could you shed some light or some ideas.
thank you for any help.
john
p.s. it had a multiple misfire code awhile back, the dealer told me it needed a tune up. this happened after i just did the tune up. hope you can help me.
ANSWER: Hi John,
Here is the info I just shared with another questioner about the multiple misfire code. You already did the distributor cap and wires which is what I would first suspect for hard starting in high humidity. I doubt it is the crank or cam sensor unless there is a code for it. I would suggest that you check out the egr valve which is located just below the thermostat housing (which is below the oil filler cap) as described in the following:
"I would check the egr valve to see that it isn't sticking slightly ajar. It is located in a pipe that branches off the front exhaust manifold and is routed to the throttle body area. You will find it near the thermostat housing and also that it has a round vacuum operated top, and the valve body is in the pipe itself. Between the two is a flange inside of which there is a rod which is the valve stem. It has a slot into which you can insert a screwdriver tip and then move the stem back and forth against spring-action which tries to close it. Made sure it closes to a full stop and that the action is not sticky. You could spray some WD-40 on the valve stem where it enters the body and then work it back and forth to loosen the action. Such an ajar valve will call poor idle/no starts, and the lean mixture resulting could smell "rich" because it won't ignite.
I doubt it is the crank or the cam sensors, which should set fault codes and usually are either go or no go, not the missing sort of behavior. That's why I think mixture is your issue. If it won't close tightly let me know and I can give you the instruction for removal/replacement.
The P0300-on codes are based upon the detection of minor missing which causes subtle differences in the rpm as each cylinder fires to produce its rotational input (crankshaft speed sensor is the detector involved). The Chrysler troubleshooting manual lists the possible causes as:
secondary ignition wires, puel pump or fuel filter, injector harness connectors, ignition coil circuit, spark plugs, mechanical engine problem, contaminated fuel, water in fuel, PCM grounds, Injectors, Restricted exhaust, intake restriction, PCM, evap system, EGR system, Air gap at high rpm's, damaged sensor trigger wheel. That is quite a list!
The approach suggested is to check all electrical connectors and wiring, then do the tests in the following order:
secondary ignition
fuel delivery
engine vacuum
PCM power and ground connections
engine mechanical
The first one uses an engine analyzer scope to look at the high voltage pattern, then spray water on the cables to see if it changes. The possible repairs: individual spark plugs, coil or cable replacement
The second one involves pressure measurement and from there a variety of possible solutions
The third involves reading the intake manifold vacuum to see if it is steady at between 13 and 22 inches of HG. and if not the suspects depend upon the pattern shown by the gauge.
The PCM involves checking various wires at the PCM plugs
The last involves engine compression testing and a variety of other mechanical checks."
Roland
Thank you for your help, i forgot to let you know that after i get the car running, and after it warms up that if i stab the gas more than half throttle it will stumble badly. but if i give it throttle at a steady pace the car will run great as ever.
Hi John,
That observation would also make me suspect the egr valve is not closing tightly. It is open normally when you are driving at a steady speed, but when you accelerate the valve has to close tightly or it will cause a too lean mixture for the demanding situation, thus stumbling when you punch the accelerator. Similarly, if it sticks slightly ajar when you turn off the engine it will be hard to start the next time you go to start up.
So all the more reason to check to be sure the valve stem moves freely and that the spring-action closes it tightly to a dead stop.
Good luck on this approach which I hope will fix your problems.
Roland
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: hi again, LOL. i checked the EGR valve and it seems to be closing and opening fine. could it be a weak coil? because when it gets warm, it will start fine as it should, but if i let it set is when it will give me a hard time again.
thanks again for your help.
AnswerHi John,
I would try to get another fault code readout, which you can do at an Autozone parts store for free, or at an independent shop for under $40. Let me know if you get any new codes and we can focus the effort that way. A new coil on the V-6 means a new distributor which is several hundred dollars so I would not go that way without a fault code that confirms it. I am please that you checked and found the egr to be sound.
Roland
