QuestionQUESTION: Hi. I have a Chrysler Concorde 1994 3.3l, I have a transmission problem, the PRN@3L lights is on in park, Shift in R and only the "R" light is on, shift "N" and all lights PRN@3L on, I shift in D and light D is on, but if Shift in 3 or L, only D light on, don't shift the 3 and L Lights.
I drive in D and all gears work softly, but sometime the tranny go in limp-in-mode then I turn off the engine and start again, and Work fine,
A few days ago, When the tranny go in Limp-in-mode I went with a Mechanic, and use a scantool, it show the 12,44,28 code and Erase data, then the tranny work fine, and after that just the scan tool show the code # 28,
I found a chart codes for this transmission, and the code 28 is a switch in shifter signal, but in this chart say don't cause Limp-in Set, the code 44 say UD Solenoid circuit and Limp-in Set "Yes", today in morning, I turn on the engine and drive then the tranny go in Limp-in Set, after 5 minutes I turn off the engine and the tranny work fine and softly. please if you have an idea about this problem, and sorry my english I write from Mexico.
ANSWER: Hi Edgar,
It is good that you have a mechanic with a scan tool. Is it the Chrysler DRB II tool?
On the 28 it could be the shift lever position sensor switch or the wires that connect to that switch or the plugs on the trans for those wires or the plug at the trans computer for those wires. I would start by checking the wires and the two multi-wire plugs on the side of the transmission to be sure the plugs are clean and tight (open and clean the interior of the plug and socket with electronic circuit board cleaner that comes in a spray can from an electronics supply store). Inspect the condition of the wires as far as you follow them looking for breaks in the insulation, etc. I have the manual pages that show how to test the switch itself electrically if the plugs and wires are not the problem.
On the 44, that involves doing some electrical tests on the underdrive solenoid, that is covered over about 20 pages of text that I can xerox copy and mail to you. Either the electrical components are the problem or the solenoid itself is the problem which would involve removing the solenoid box from the side of the transmission.
Does the mechanic have experience with servicing this transmission? It would be good to have someone who either has the experience or who would be able to do it with the help of a service manual.
Fortunately it doesn't sound like a problem with the internal clutches, etc that would require removing and rebuilding the inside of the transmission.
I can xerox copy and postal mail the pages to you. It costs me about 10 cents per page, plus the postage. If you will tell me what manuals your mechanic (or yourself, if you want to try this yourself) has, then I would know how much to copy.
You can use the 'thank/rate' to respond and tell me in the 'comments' section of that response tab. Tell me a postal mailing address to which I can send the materials. Then when you get them you can arrange a method of repaying my copy/mail costs.
Roland
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Hi, Thank for you answer, I will try to check this connection, but I have another question, My battery have 3 year old, and begins to losses charge, the last 3 days in the morning, I noticed that, I turn on the engine and the lights in the cluster, have a low bright then start the engine and put in D and star to drive the tranny go in 1st, 2 then go to Limp-in Set and the PRND3L lights come all on, I drive for a 10 minutes then make a stop and wait a 2 minutes and start the engine again, and the tranny go in D normal operation 1st 2nd 3rd 4 and make softly. The low power in the battery can cause the tranny go to limp-in set?.
I know that this transmission are delicate and for this reason i try to found answers about this problem because I don't go with a mechanic that don't know this transmission and for that reason I ask to you, for give an idea and looking for a good mechanic.
Unfortunately I Live In Saltillo Mexcio, and I don't know how to pay for the copies, but any answer can help me.
thanks for you time
AnswerHi Edgar,
Your battery may be weak, but typically once the engine is running the alternator will put out sufficient voltage to operate the transmission properly. However, it could be the case that the battery or the alternator is running at a too low voltage condition. I would suggest that you remove the battery caps (usually 2, each with three sub-caps) and see if the fluid (electrolyte) level in each of the 6 cells has covered the tops of the plates (there should be no exposed edges sticking out of the fluid), If any of the cells shows too low a level, then I would add some distilled water to raise the level to just cover the plate edges, but do this after you have driven the car so as to re-charge the battery as much as is likely. Low electrolyte level is a sign of a discrharged battery cell. If you have a battery charger you could try using it overnight. This battery "maintenance" would be a good idea, just to be sure it is not involved in the problem.
The illumination of the shifter position lights is done by a combination of the shift lever position switch (inside the box on the side of the transmission), transmission computer logic, the digital data communication wires (called the "bus") and the electronic circuits of the instrument cluster.
One weak area of these systems seems to be that the electrical connections (solder joints) between the plug sockets on the instrument cluster and the circuit board of the cluster become fractured and cause a communication failure which may feedback to the transmission computer. One thing you might try is to remove the instrument cluster and use a soldering pencil to reheat the solder joints that connect the plug sockets to the circuit board so as to re-establish good connections.
Try those two ideas and see if this helps, and of course check the plugs, sockets, and wires at the transmission box itself.
Then let me know what you learn. I have seen batteries fail in a year or two, so it may be worth replacing yours if it is not holding a full charge. It may have some warranty time left which would be worth a bit of a discount if you exchanged it for the same brand.
Don't be concerned about the cost of copy/postage, I can afford it and so can provide you with whatever pages you need free of charge.
Roland
