QuestionMy van has sporadically been behaving strangely for a year.
Here are the symptoms:
1) I start the car. It starts instantly and then seems to run out of gas in about 5 seconds.
2) I can restart 4 times.
3) On the 5th restart it refuses to crank at all. I hear the fuel pump and a noise near the front passenger firewall but no crank whatsoever. Instrument panel shows as dead but all accessories work...radio, wipers, etc.
4) This no crank status can stay for 30 minutes, for a day, or for several days but always clears up when the vehicle is towed to a repair shop. :)
5) Once the no crank status clears the vehicle starts normally and instantly until the scenario recurs a few weeks later.
6) The battery is fully charged and a jump won't change anything.
7) No error codes are recorded.
8) I have replaced the following:
Starter (with solenoid)
PCM Computer
MAP Sensor
Starter Relay
Automatic Shutdown relay
9) Positioning the shifter in Park or Neutral and moving it around has no effect on the no crank status.
10) This may be in some what related to another pathology...sometimes when it's been damp out the instrument panel doesn't initialize...no tach, no speedo, no fuel gauge but the ABS, AlarmSet,and Check Engine Lights stay on. Car runs normally. Checking codes shows the "no communication with the instrument panel error". This typically clears by the 3rd start in a few hours.
What can prevent the engine from even considering cranking? What else is left to replace?
AnswerHi Chris,
Thanks for the detailed description of symptoms.
The problem is related to the anti-theft system failing to disarm properly so it refuses to allow the engine to start properly until it resets on its own later.
This has been a common problem brought to my attention. There is a procedure for diagnosing the system, which is centered in the body computer, which uses the diagnostic readout box (DRBIII) at a dealership and which might be helpful. I would try to lock/unlock the passenger side door when this happens using the door key, if you have already tried that key lock approach at the driver door when you got into the car. The "ignition off draw" fuse can be removed for about 30 minutes to also clear this, but it seems like it already is clearing for you in 30 minutes(that is fuse 28 at the rear of box that is under hood) so that is no advantage.
Short of solving the problem with the disarming procedure with the DRB III, the best way to avoid it is to never arm the system in the first place. You can do that by only using the mechanical push buttons on the doors to secure the van when you leave it. Don't use the door key, the power door locks, or the remote fob to lock up, just the push buttons and you can avoid the hassle. The system itself is integrated so there is no way to physically remove it.
It is unfortunate to have spent so much already on this. But save the old parts, if any, because they are probably good.
Roland
