QuestionQUESTION: 1986 Chrysler New Yorker 2.2L MPFI Turbo engine.
Note: Even with the timing bounching around before, it ran for two years and then this problem. This ought to boggle your mind. it sure has mine.
Here is an odd one for you. I have recently rebuilt the engine and drove it 20,000 miles with no problems up until now into the second year after the rebuild and I replaced all the sensors, logic module, power module, fuel pump, fuel pump release and return valves, hoses, pressure regulator and checked the wiring and I can't find any apparent problems; but the thing sometimes is hard to start and other times it starts up with no problems until it runs for awhile and then it will die. The battery is fully charged at this time also. Then I'll try starting it again and it would start.
I'll let it sit for awhile and sometimes over night and then I can start it again; but the same problem occurs over and over. It does it cold, warm and hot. I also checked for codes. The only code I get is 12 saying it's in standby mode and it runs on that also. What would cause this problem. It's one of them hard to diagnose problems because it's intermittent; runs smooth when started up; but it won't stay running very long. It will run smooth anywhere from 3 to 5 minutes and then start running a little rough and then dies. I will check for fuel pressure in the rail and there is a lot.
I also check the fuel injectors wiring harness and there was no problem with that. When I set the distributor closer to where the timing is suppose to be, it dies. Then it won't start back up unless I advanced the distributor beyond 20 degrees BTDC. When I set the distributor timing closer to the specs it should be at it won't start at all and if running it dies. All the cog gears are set per factory specifications so this baffles the hell out of me. Have you ever experienced that with a 1986 Chrysler New Yorker 2.2L MPFI Turbo engine before?
ANSWER: Hi Robert,
Did your sensor change out include the MAP sensor? That one can get inaccurate without setting a fault code.
And have you checked the functioning of your egr valve? See if the stem moves freely, against spring action that closes it, to make sure that it is free. There is a stem that you will find between the round top and the body of the valve. It has a slot, into which you put the tip of a screwdriver so as to move the stem back and forth. If it is sticky spray some WD-40 on the stem where it enters the body of the valve.
Other than that I don't have any other suggestions. I am uncertain whether a DRB-II will work with your logic module set up, but that would be a way to get some feedback about the sensor readings if it does interact.
Roland
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: No, I have not replaced the MAP sensor that is mounted to the Logic module on this one. It doesn't act like a Map sensor from my past experience with other vehicles because the idle doesn't fluctuate as I have experienced with other bad MAP sensors. I did a vacuum test also on the Map sensor to make sure the diaphragm with it was OK. The EGR valve moves up and down freely and again on idle it's smooth until it all of a sudden starts to sputter and then dies, then it's hard to start back up at times, then at times after it acts up it won't start at all until it sets for awhile. Can the Map sensor still be the problem even though there is no fluctuation in the idle speed when it is running?
AnswerHi Robert,
I would suggest that you monitor the MAP voltage while it is idling well, and when it is just sitting with the ignition "on", and then check it again after it acts up to see if the voltage is the same before it acted up and after it acted up. I don't have any other ideas except to see if you can use a DRB-II to check all the senors when it is running. The plug looks OK for the task so maybe that would be an effective way to figure out was is going on.
Roland
