Chrysler Repair: Cirrus 96 LXi 2.5L V6 Engine: no start/no spark, crankshaft sensor, strut towers


Question
QUESTION: "    Hello i´m Brian and i have a Cirrus 96 LXi with a 2.5L  V6 Engine
   I wonder if you could help me to know if my car came with a factory alarm system
The VIN of my car is: 1C3EJ56H8TN226053.
I had problems with my car, it does not start, there is no spark, First My car sometimes start and another time don´t star, and when it start and few time later when the car is hot(i mean when it have sometime start and moving) it turn off...i replaced Distributor with a remanofactured DIS, i replaced crankshaft sensor, i check ASD, check the fuel pump, i´ve check some of your answers to other people that have the same problem....Now i´m thinking in replace PCM BUT i want to be shure before i buy one. PLease tell me somthing to help me. I read in some web that it could be a Broken GROUND like this "removeing the front valve cover( to replace gaskets), and the wire in question, is in front right corner, where the wire, curves around valve cover. What happens is, youcan Not see the wire, it comes out the bottom of the hareness. Look on rear of the fornt head, see if TWO ground wires are connected to a bolt", CAN YOU TELL me is this is the Problem Roland?...Or help me in some way...
I appreciated you atention...
I Wait for you answer.

ANSWER: Hi Brian,
There is a black wire that comes out of pin #5 of the 6-pin plug of the distributor that goes to the ground bolt on the engine. The bolt is at the rear corner of the front cylinder bank, under the valve cover and the distributor, at the corner closer to the front of the car. The other grounds to check are on the transmission (on the firewall side, just above the extension housing, where the half shafts exit) and the left and right strut towers. I would find all those attachment points, check that the wires are attaached to the grommets, that the grommets aren't corroded/rusted, and that they are bolted tightly. Any bad ground listed above could cause your problem.
Then let me know the current symptoms.
Roland

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hi Roland, I checked all the grounds that you tell me to do and i think they are fine. My car still does not work. There are no fault codes, i get it using the ignition key and the check engine light, there are only two codes 12 and 55, and it mean nothing. The problem is: I start the car fine, i don´t have problems starting it, but after 5 or 7 minutes the car begin to fail until it shut down.... When i try to started again, it start but failing still died again. I think there is spark in other way my car does not start. What do you think is the problem?. I´ve Check BROKEN Wrounds, i check voltage in th PCM, pin 20, the 8V suppply, i changed the crankshaft sensor(IT´S NEW). I saw when my car died, the oil indicator shows up. But i check Oil and it´s fine. I don´t think this problem is about my PCM, what do you think Roland?....Do you think It´s something about spark plug or with spark plug wires?. Yesterday  i take off all the spark plug, and the spark plug wires, and the 6 spark plug have CARBON FOULED top - matt black, sooty, ...... so what about it, spark plug wires are bad?, it´s about my problem?. Or could be a faulty injector, caused for the PCM??


ANSWER: Hi Brian,
That shutdown after 5 to 7 minutes is a new and important bit of information. I believe that you may have an engine coolant temperature sensor that is defective. It should as the engine warms up lean out the fuel mixture, and what you apparently have instead is a too rich mixture at that point. The sensor is located next to the coolant filler neck at the rear if the cylinder head. You have to remove the air cleaner assembly to get to it. It has an electrical plug on the top which releases by gently lifting the tab on the side of it. The wires are black/light blue and tan/black for identification. If you measure the resistance across the terminals of the sensor it should be 7,000 to 13,000 ohms, but as the engine warms up you can read it again (reattach the plug to start the engine) and when the engine temp gauge reaches warm normal the resistance should have dropped to about 1,000 ohms. If not, then that is your problem. It unscrews to remove it, but first drain off a couple of quarts of coolant from the radiator so the fluid is below the level of the cylinder head. It is torqued back in to only 5 foot-pounds, so don't overdue it. You might well place some plumber's teflon tape on the threads to assure a good seal and make for easy removal in the future.
 Roland

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hi Roland, I checked the engine coolant temperature sensor, and when the engine temp gauge reaches warm normal the resistance show 1,958 ohms. You told me  the resistance most be about 1000 Ohms....Do you think the sensor it´s defective?. I measure the resistance sensor when my car start to fail and it´s 1,968 Ohms, do i most replace it?.
Another think is Yesterday i saw this code and i don´t know what is that mean: "P1768  01/01 Chrysler Generic DTC Definitions not found...Please To Vehicule Service Manual".
My car still fail in the same way....You tell me if i most replace the engine coolant temperature sensor or not, and what else can i do to see what´s the problem with my car?.
Thanks a lot for your guidence.

Answer
Hi Brian,
If you temp gauge is showing about half scale or so and the sensor shows that high a resistance, then I do believe this is contributing to the problem, and possibly is the only cause of the problem. Of course I can't guarantee it, but it should be 700 to 1,000 ohms rather than 2,000 ohms. This will cause a too rich mixture. I would replace it and see what happens. It is probably faulty, but it is not so bad as to set a fault code. This is not uncommon. The sensor fault codes are not going to be set tight enough to detect off-value sensors, rather total failures. But nonetheless the sensor can cause the problem.
Roland