Chrysler Repair: Running rough when warm, solenoid pack, coolant temp

Question
My 1989 new Yorker 3.0 v6 4 speed Auto Trans (41TE Ultradrive/ A604) runs great when cold but as soon as it starts to warm up it begins to lurch and this gets worse the more I drive it (it has overheated in the past to the point of boiling over but the head gasket and head are fine and it no longer overheats thanks to a new thermostat, radiator cap and radiator flush) if you press the throttle all the way it will almost cut out you have to press the throttle approx 1/2 an inch no more or the car will lag (the gas will catch and lurch then stop and you have to wait for the gas to surge again, usually within 2-5 seconds),if I turn the ignition off and wait 10-25 seconds and start it again it runs great again for a few minutes. There is no catalytic converter and the exhaust is made up of 2.5” tubing (it does leak a little but not a lot) I have checked the MAP sensor with your test of removing the vacuum pipe and testing the voltage, I have replaced the 02 sensor, I have also tested the TPS with a ohmmeter and the resistance slowly increases with the movement of the throttle, and the coolant temp sensor is fine as I tried a new one and it changed nothing is the coil getting too hot? And not creating a spark fast enough as the idle is fine when it starts to lag, or could it be the fuel pump is not delivering enough pressure. There is also a 'bump-shift' throughout the temperature range, which is more pronounced from 2-1,but present in all gears. This had stopped when I removed and cleaned the solenoid pack (no fluid change or filter) yet just now it started to ‘bump-shift’ again. The codes I get are 22: Coolant sensor voltage too low, -Tested this and it was 2-3v not 5v but the MAP sensor voltage was 5v so I tried to jump a wire from the map to the CTS and it gave a 44 code (no FJ2 voltage present at PCM) and put the MIL lamp on, 13: Little or no change in map - I tested this and the output voltage was around 4 .5v when the pipe was disconnected and about 1v with it connected,33 A/C relay (not a problem) Please HELP I am running out of ideas and money fast."

Answer
I would check the supply, ground, and signal wires for the MAP and the CTS. The dark green/red wire signal wire at the MAP goes to pin 1 of SMEC. The signal wire from the CTS (tan/white) goes to pin 2 of the SMEC 60-way. Both have black/light blue sensor common grounds that go to pin 4.
The MAP has a violet/white that should have 5V on it when the ignition is 'on'. Is the resistance of the CTS about 10-14,000 ohm when cold, and does it drop to 700-1000 ohms when hot, smoothly as it warms up? Check all the wires for continuity and the signal wires should be tested to not be grounded. Let me know if anything comes of that testing and we'll go from there. I would separate out the trans issue from the engine issue.
The MAP signal should be about 4.6V when the ignition is 'on' but the engine not running, and then it should drop down to around 1.5 when idling.
Roland