Chrysler Repair: T & C Blower problems, blower motor resistor, internal calibration


Question
Okay.  I have a 02 T&C, 3.3L, v6....I have 96000 miles on it.  A few months
ago I  had the alternator replaced and the water pump.  I did have some A/C
issues during the summer.  But NOW, the heat is acting really weird.  After I
start it, it usually just blows in the back, no matter where I want it to blow
and it blows at one speed no matter what temp or flow I put it at on the
guage.  After it has been running awhile ( I park in the garage so it isn't a
matter of engine warmth)  it always takes different amounts of time before it
decides to actually blow where I tell it to, like defrost, one time it took like 30
minutes and I was all frosted up!  When it does realize and change flow
direction it works and is hot.  For the last 2 days now the back blower is not
even coming on, until what?  I don't know what triggers the change, as far as
I can tell it is not engine warmth.  Don't even know what I should check????
Any suggestions
Thanks
Nancy

Answer
Hi Nancy.
You have several issues going on there. On the rear blower not functioning at all I would look at fuse #11 in the fuse box under the dash on the driver side to see if it is blown. On the front blower only blowing on high (correct?) that is due to the blower motor resistor block having a defect which requires replacement. It is located in the intake air duct plenum, right in front of the windshield, and is accessed from the engine comparment on the passenger side under the windshield wiper module (there is a square opening you reach into to access the block for replacement). On the air distribution issues, that is related to the "mode door" which directs the air to various ducts in response to the mode knob, and that door is moved by an electrical actuator. It could be the door is binding, the actuator is not responding to commands, or the system is in need of internal calibration. There is a fairly lengthy calibration/diagnostic procedure you can run yourself and the only practical way to share that is to copy the pages by xerox and postal mail them to you. I am going to be on vacation over the weekend so may not be able to get to that until Tuesday but will be glad to do it then. I may need to run about 8-12 pages sides at 10 cents each plus postage to do that. If you would like the material use the "thank and rate" tab to enter a mailing address. You can reimburse me with postage stamps after you get the materials.
Then when you get the results of the procedure we can go on from there. In the meantime check the fuse, and if the front blower only runs on high that is typical of the resistor block. You can get a replacement at the dealer or perhaps for less at a professional trade type of auto parts store so do some comparison shopping. It is in the range of $30. Engine warmth itself is not a factor, unless you don't get any heat possibly, so most likely the issue has to do with calibration or some fault in the control motors for the several doors in the system.
Roland