Chrysler Repair: 3.3L engine not running issues, plymouth grand voyager, head gasket leak

Question
i have a 1991 v6 Plymouth grand voyager se.
3.3 L


its runs great, when it does run.

i have had an issue with it for pat 3 months. i was running fine, then started backfiring a bit, and steadily got worse.

got so bad when driving you could push the accelerator down, and all it would do is backfire under load.



then one cold nite, it ran fine and then died. would turn over, but wouldnt start up. fuel  pump kicked on and it acted like a no spark situation.



the next day, go out, and bit warmer, and its started up and white smoke poured out, and then cleared and ran fine.

i went to nearest auto parts store , got new map sensor.

it installed easliy in back  of engine block via screwing in a threaded hole, conect wire harness, cool



it started and ran great. had power was better then when i bought it.



it got to be cold again, ran fine, i worried  but still it ran good. then one morning  it would start again. no backfireing b4 hand, nadda.



i check the coil pack. and im getting spark.  now it runs fine again after 3 days of just sitting not running.



im leaning towards a crank sensor, or some sort of sensor.

i did the code retrival thing with ignition on-off-on -off five times and then the check engine light blinks. but nothing online or in code manual helps in the cause.



im about to pull my hair out, i dont run it it jsut sits now until i can figure out what is what.

Answer
Hi Scott,
I'm a bit uncertain because of a possible typo: did you mean to say "then one morning it wouldN'T start again"?
The "code retrieve thing" is: On-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time, Not "on-off-on-off five times". So try the readout again and tell me the number of flashes. Repeat for verification.
Finally, the "white smoke poured out" observation may indicate you have an intermittent head gasket leak, because that is what happens when coolant gets into the combustion chamber during cooldown and subsequent starting. Are you loosing coolant? If so, you might do well to check for the presence of coolant in the engine by removing the spark plugs when it is cold and check them for moisture, then have a helper crank the engine while the plugs are still out and watch for immediate expulsion of fluid from one of the spark plug holes. If that happens you might be able to repair that problem by backing off the torque on the cylinder head bolts in the reverse pattern of tightening, until they are around 40 foot-pounds, then re-torquing to 80 foot-pounds in 2 steps, doing that on the cylinder bank which showed the leak. The bolts have a 10mm allen hex.
Let me know about any codes.
Roland