Chrysler Repair: 97 sebring conv quits running, sebring conv, cable clamps

Question
Hi Roland,
my mother passed away and left my daughter a 97 sebring convertible, and the car ran great when she 1st got it.. Now for some reason it just quits running while driving down the road and it loses all the power to the inside of the car.it wont crank over or anything,then it may restart in 10 mins or 2 days.. I am really at wits end with this car but i dont have the money to take it to a dealer and spend thousands of dollar for them to try and fix it.. I have put a new ignition switch, battery, replaced all the relays and fuses in the fuse box.. i need help

Answer
Hi Ronnie,
When you say all power to the inside of the car, I will assume that you mean all the interior lights as well. If this is not the case, write back and tell me what electrical functions DO work when the car quits as you describe as that is key to finding the cause. My thought based on my assumption is that the ground wire of the battery is not firmly attached to the drivers side strut tower which is the structural element under the hood that sits near the back of the engine compartment and that is roughly round in structure with a flat top. You will see a bolt at the top front edge of the stucture that is securing three or so wires to the structure. That point represents the main connection of everything electrical to the return post of the battery in order to complete every electrical circuit. It it is not a clean, shiny, tight  connection everything can stop unexpectedly. So loosen that bolt and shine up all the cable eyelets and the place where the bolt screws in, then reattach all the wires with the bolt and tighten in down firmly.
If that doesn't fix the problem, once again tell me which engine related functions, lighting functions, accessory functions do seem to be working when you have this problem. But if you loose everything including the interior lights it has to be either the cable clamps or cables attached to the battery (which I assume were serviced properly when you replaced the battery) or the attachment I have described or possibly the thick red wire from the +post of the battery to the power distribution (fuse box, etc.) that is located under hood as well. Something very basic and central to the carrying of current in other words.
Finally, check fuse #5 in the fuse block that is under the dash as that one might have a crack in its wire which opens and then recovers spontaneously. It provides voltage to the interior lights and also some vital computer functions. Look at the internal wire to see if it might have a subtle crack in it, or even just replace it to be sure
Roland
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