Chrysler Repair: 1994 Chrysler Concorde wont start, chrysler concorde, 1994 chrysler concorde


Question
QUESTION: I own a 94 Chrysler Concorde that was starting fine until yesterday. When you turn the ignition it cranks but does not start. I think the alternator is still good as the battery has not drained. It will crank successfully but won't start. Could it be the fuel pump or fuel filter and where would they be located and is it easily fixable?

Thanks

ANSWER: Hi Anthony,
You not only need fuel but also spark and proper mixture to run the engine, so don't focus on any one. The best way to start is to get the fault codes that might be stored in the engine controller which will give a clue as to what is wrong. Use the ignition key:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the check engine light which remains "on" to begin to flash, pause, flash etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause, then repeat to assure an accurate count. Then combine the numbers in pairs in the order of appearance to form the 2-digit fault code numbers. 55 will always be the last as it means 'end of readout'.
Then go to www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html for a code translation, or write back to me with the codes and we'll take it from there. Tell me if you have the 3.3L or 3.5L.
If it were the fuel pump you would not hear it hum for about a second when you turn the key to the run position which would be the normal expectation. It is located in the fuel tank so you have to listen for it coming from under the vehicle near the rear wheels. So listen for that brief hum sound. It starts humming again when you crank the starter but it is so soft that you might not be able to hear it over the sound of the starter.
I would not buy any part until you get it clear as to what is missing in action from the situation.
Roland
PS Please rate my answer, thanks.

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QUESTION: Roland,
Thanks for your reply.
The codes I received are 1 2 5 4 5 5 or 3 5 4 5 5 the pause was very brief between the the 1 2 or 3 5 so I was not sure how to interpret it.
I was able to hear the fuel pump hum when turning the ignition.
I have also been told this vehicle should be burning mid grade or premium fuel. The person driving it has been using regular unleaded. Could that be causing the car not to start.

Thanks

ANSWER: Hi Anthony,
The fuel is not the cause of the no start. The code is clearly 12,54,55. The 12 just means that sometime in the past the battery supply to the controller was disconnected. The 55 is of course pro forma. The code 54 is why your engine won't start. You need to replace the cam shaft position sensor as it is not putting out a signal to the controller so there is no spark. Buy a new sensor, make sure that it has a paper spacer on the operating tip as that is pressed against surface of the cam sprocket and then when it rubs away the sensor is properly set. You will find it located at the front edge of the engine in the timing cover. It has three wires: orange, black/light blue, tan/yellow. Press the tip against the metal surface inside the engine, then tighten the retaining bolt to 9 foot-pounds. That should get you back and running.
Roland
PS Thanks for the kind rating and nomination.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks for the Quick response.
Would you say this is easily done by an amateur?
I would say I am mechanically inclined but have never done something like this.
I would prfer to do it myself if it is easy enough. Or do you know of website I could download the manual with the procedure.

Again thanks for al your help I will rate you highly

Answer
Hi Anthnoy,
Once you locate the sensor it will be obvious as to its replacement. On the 3.3L it is approximately underneath the top radiator hose where it comes to the engine's thermostat manifold, and on the 3.5L it is to the left side of the same manifold, both locations at the top front area of the engine. Just be sure to get the tip of the paper-covered sensor pressed on the surface of the sprocket that is inside the hole and not visible, but you will feel it touch when you insert the sensor. Then tighten the retaining bolt to about what the old one felt like if you don't have a torque wrench, or hold the wrench at about foot distance from the socket and press with a force of what feels to you to be 9 pounds of pressure. You just want to make sure it won't change position, and you don't want to strip the threads. There is no site I know of but when you buy the sensor you will know what it looks like and that will help you find the old one. Also the wire colors will verify that you found it, if they are visible.
Thanks for the rating.
Roland