Chrysler Repair: 93 Intrepid not getting fuel, wont start, fuelpump, engine controller

Question
my car was running just fine until i filled the tank ,when i shut it off it would start again but then peter out until it stalled.i asumed that i got bad fuel and had too change the filter.in order too chenge the filter i had to releive the fuel pressure through the valve on the fuel rail,when i put the new filter on and tried to start the car the fuelpump wasnt pumping fuel.also before i changed the filter i had just driven the car too my house and parked it.in order for it too run i had too keep the rpms around 2000.is there a relay switch or a roleover switch that i might have too reset or even someway of munualy repressureizing the system in order too bleed it?i have no ideas,it would be very apreciated if you could help. thanks  nick m

Answer
Hi Nick,
I don't believe that there is anything the matter with the fuel system as the result of your de-pressurizing it and installing a new filter. To verify that you might want to measure the pressure in the system at the same port where you de-pressurized it.
The fuel pump will not run for more than a second when you turn the ignition switch to the 'run' position. That is a safety feature. It is controlled by the autoshutdown relay which will only be activated be the engine rotating (either during the starter motor or actual running mode). You can verify whether/when the pump is getting voltage from that relay by measuring for it on the dark green/black wire at the pump, which is accessible via a lid in the floor of the trunk. Just measure between that wire and any shiny metal surface nearby. Insert a fine pin through the insulation to contact the internal conductor of the wire.
If you don't get 12V on the wire when you are cranking it then the relay is not closing. That may be due to a failed sensor for the ignition system which tells the relay that the engine is turning over. If that were the case, a fault code would be stored in the engine controller.
Try to get fault codes: using the ignition key turn it on-off-on-off-on and leave it on, doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the check engine light which will remain 'on' to begin to flash, pause, flash, pause, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat to verify accurate counts. Then group the counts in the order of appearance to form two-digit fault code numbers. The last number will always be 55, the code for "end of readout". You can get a translation for the other codes at www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html
Write back for instruction on any specific codes you find to be present.
The other thing you might check is whether the egr valve, located in a pipe from the right side exhaust manifold back to the intake manifold near the throttle body, might be stuck ajar. It has a round top separated from the valve body that is bolted into the pipe, and between the top and body there is a flange inside of which you will see a rod (valve stem) with a slot around its circumference. Use a screwdriver's tip to lever the valve back and forth and verify that if firmly seats with the help of spring tension in the closed position. If it doesn't move easily then spray some WD-40 on the stem where it enters the body to free up its motion.
Those are how I would recommend that you approach the situation.
Roland