Chrysler Repair: 96 Dodge Intrepid wont start, exhaust gas recirculation valve, exhaust gas recirculation


Question
QUESTION: I have a 96 dodge intrepid witha 3.3. We just replaced the engine in it, and now it just wont start.. we have brought it to a mechanic who said the computer.. but w/ a new computer it didnt work still.. new senors.. its still not working.. someone else said it could be the auto shut off relay.. but where is that located??

ANSWER: Hi Alishia,
That relay is under the hood in the squarish box near the battery. It is at the right rear corner, # 4. You might find out by simply substituting another relay with the same part number from elsewhere in the box.
Has the mechanic tried to readout fault codes that might be stored in the computer? If not, that would be a good idea. If you get any specific numbers let me know and I can interpret it for you. That would be the most efficient way to go. There is a plug under the dash near the steering column into which to plug a code reader, and if you can beg or borrow or buy one that would be very helpful in diagnosing what is wrong. Otherwise, it can be very defeating to try throwing parts at the problem.
Do you hear the fuel pump hum for about 1 second when you turn the key to the run position (it is inside the fuel tank so listen for a sound from under the rear wheel area). Is a spark plug when removed "wet", showing that fuel is being injected?
Is there spark when cranking the engine? Use a spare spark plug inserted into one of the normal spark plug caps and hold it by the insulated surface of the cap so that the threads of the plug are on a metal surface of the engine. Then have a helper crank for 5 seconds while you observe for spark to jump across the gap.
If you seem to have spark and fuel, then take a look at the exhaust gas recirculation valve which if stuck ajar would dilute the mixture too much to get the mixture to fire.  
Let me know what you learn and I'll try to give you some further direction.
Roland


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: when we cross a hot wire from the battery to the coil pack, it would run.. but as soon as the wire was off.. it wouldnt run.. even after a new computer and crankshaft sensor
ANSWER: Well that simplifies the matter, Alishia. The jumping of the battery to the coil pack is essentially doing what the Autoshutdown relay is supposed to do. The fact that the engine will run must mean that the cam and crank sensors and the computer are OK. So either the ASD relay is bad, or there is no power to the actuation coil of the relay that is needed to close it or there is no power coming to the relay to pass along to the spark coil, etc.
I would check to see if fuse #18 under the dash is blown (5 amp) as that is the power source to operate the relay. Then I would try switching the relay out for another relay with the same part number but that doesn't have anything to do with the engine just to see if that will fix it. The last things to do would be to check that you are getting 12V to the actuation coil of the relay on the A pin of the relay socket (which is the pin closest to relay #3) just to prove that the power to operate the relay is present when you have the ignition switch "on", and also check that you have 12V on the pin that is closest to the front of the car in that same ASD relay socket. If not, then check 20 amp fuse B ('ignition') in the box under the hood.
One of those several reasons is why you can't get it to run without a jumper.
Roland

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: we checked all of the fuses and relays and everything seemed to be good, but it still wont start unless you run the wire from the coil to the battery, which like I said before it starts, but runs rough. I found what I think is a 3 prong senor looking thing that Im sure goes SOMEWHEREs on it down beside the battery..

Answer
I would suggest that you jump to the coil pack start it and go to an Autozone Parts store and ask if they will do a free readout of the fault codes, which I am told is something that they offer. Show them the sensor to see if they can identify it.
It might be one of the engine control sensors, such as the cam sensor. Look for any disconnected wires that might be plugged into the sensor and tell me the colors of the wires so maybe I can ID what it is and where it goes. If you get any fault codes by reading out the engine controller's memory find out what the number(s) are for the codes, what is the title, what they recommend doing, and either write back or follow their advice if it sounds reasonable and not too expensive. If any important sensor is not connected that will for sure produce a fault code and thus tell you what it is.
Don't leave the jumper in place except to drive it. If you do the fuel pump will run all the time, so will the coil pack and the oxygen sensors etc. and you will run down the battery and possibly wear out the fuel pump. Just use the jump when you need to drive the car to get help, etc., but disconnect it when you are not going to be driving it for 5 minutes or more.
Roland