Chrysler Repair: 97 Chrysler LH no start, 1997 chrysler concorde, 4 digit numbers

Question
i have a 1997 chrysler concorde with a 3.5l engine
it wont start. i changed the plugs and wires and that
didnt help i was told to check my fuel pressure. i haven't a clue where thefuel rail service port is and hoe to go
about checking it. any help you could give me would be greatly appreciated.

Answer
Hi John,
Probably there is something wrong with the ignition control system and the best way to determine that would be to read out the memory of the engine contol module for the presence of any fault codes. '97 was the first year of an updated code system that modified the codes and how to access them. It may be possible to do it yourself, if not then a code reader needs to be plugged in under the dash to a socket near the steering column. On a chance that it might allow for self readout: turn the ignition key "on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch for whether the numbers change in the odometer window which replaces the mileage with 4-digit numbers OR the check engine light to begin to flash, pause, flash, etc, in which case you count the number of flashes before each pause, then repeat for accuracy, and group the numbers in pairs to form the codes. None of the above may happen however so without a code reader you have to do other tests.
Because you changed the plugs, if you saved one I would suggest that you remove the plug cap off one of the spark plugs, insert an old plug in the cap, then holding the combo by the rubber cap touch the threaded part of the plug against the engine head while a helper cranks the engine for about 5 seconds. Watch to see if you have no spark, sparks for about 1 second or sparks for the whole 5 seconds. Then if you have a voltmeter go to the alterator and find the dark green/orange wire and measure the voltage to the post where it is attached when a helper turns on the ignition to the run position. It should show 12V for about a second. Then have the helper crank the engine and observe the voltage to return for either 1 second only, or for the full 5 seconds of cranking. All these observations will point us toward what might be the matter. The most usual reason is that one of the spark timing sensors has gone bad, and these tests are diagnostic of that possibility.
Write back with the results and we'll go from there. On the fuel issue, the main question is whether the fuel pump runs for 1 second when you turn the key to run position, then does it run again when you start a 5 second crank. The only problem is to hear it while the engine is cranking is difficult. It is located in the fuel tank and so you can hear it for the initial key to "run" position, but then it is difficult to tell if it starts pumping again. Actually the measurement of the dark green/orange wire's voltage is  the same test because that same engine control action is responsible for both the 12V and the fuel pump activation. But in any case listen near the rear of the car from underneath when you turn the key to run; it should last for about 1 second. The pressure is probably there if it runs.
Roland