QuestionQUESTION: Yes, Roland. Iam sorry I forgot the bvious... the car is a voyager LE 2.0, 1998. Thanks. Joao
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The text above is a follow-up to ...
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pwps stopped working soon after coming back from dealer (humm talk about coincidences...). I know it seems a recurring theme on your list os questions but from reading those I would not be able to get very far. Even the manual does not seem to indicate a fuse point, relay or otherwise for the power windows?!? I would be grateful for any suggestions amd/or diagrams you could send me. The postal address if needed is:77 Elsinge Road-EN1 4PE-Enfield-London - UK
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Hi Joao,
What is the year and model of vehicle that you have? They are not all the same. If I'm not available, send me the answer by the "thank and rate" tab where there is a comment section.
Roland
ANSWER: Hi Joao,
I did receive your earlier response, but there is not an easy way to acknowledge you without demeriting my efforts to respond quickly to each question (a flaw in the Allexpert software), so that is why I didn't get back to you sooner. In fact I just put a letter in mailbox this morning, which was picked up about an hour ago, and which has pages that discuss how to trouble shoot the power windows and to get inside the door to service it. So if you can hold off for a few days till the letter arrives by airmail you may be able to correct this without going to a shop. Best of luck with it. I just used the name Joao as the addressee, so I hope the postman will find your specific box.
Roland
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QUESTION: Hi Roland,
Many thanks for your sopport on that. On a different note, I would like your views on the following: Voyager 98 LE, 2.0, manual, petrol. recently, the petrol sold on a particular area of London had a high level of silica what caused a large number of car to have engine problems like misfire. A mercedes owner had to replace a damaged component that checked the oxigen mix in the engine as a result. My engine is running rough, like chocking (or misfiring), and not performing as it used to. Would in my case changing the plugs solve this problem or would it involve other electronic components, adjustments, etc?!? that is to say, a trip to the dealer's workshop (very dear around here...)
AnswerHi Joao,
One appproach would be to look at a plug and see if appears to be damaged (look at the white insulator as well as the electrodes). If that looks normal, then it would be reasonable to suspect that one or both of the oxygen sensors is bad. But these are expensive enough to suggest that the way to find out is by a diagnostic code readout of the powertrain controller. This requires an OBD-II type reader. It would probably be worth having that done rather than to buy one or both sensors, but you can weigh that once you check out the price of a readout against the price of a sensor(s). They are located on the exhaust manifold and at a downstream position on the far side of the catalytic converter. They are called 1 and 2 for that reason, respectively. You may want to soak the threads with penetrating oil overnight before trying to remove them. Be very careful when putting in a new one not to damage its wires where they attach to the tip. Tighten them in to the same torque spec as a spark plug by means of a hand wrench (there is a special socket for these sensors but it probably is too expensive to warrant buying it). So just do it by feel.
I think that is the most likely explanation. You may only have to replace one of them, so that is a reason to get a readout. But if only one is bad it is probably the upstream sensor.
It could also be the case that the catalytic converter is partially plugged, but that usually doesn't show up at idle or low rpm, rather at high rpm.
Can you get the petrol sellers to pay for the part you might need?
Roland
