QuestionThank you so much for such a quick response! You are the man! Another question was about the gasket to use. Some people say that certain ones leak real bad that come w/ the trans filter and that there is a certain one that works well w/ the sebring. Do you happen to recommend one gasket?
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The text above is a follow-up to ...
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I purchased a 97 sebring jxi conv last year w/ 120k and now it has 142k and was wondering if I should perform a transmission fluid/filter change. I have heard mixed reviews on this subject and just wanted to have it clarified. And if it is necessary, then how does the manual recommend the process. I know that a lot of fluid is left in the torque converter and only 1/4 or so in the pan. Also, which gasket should I use to replace the old one. I am somewhat of a newbie on car repairs so don't get too technical for me lol
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Hi Colt,
The manual speaks of the first change of a new vehicle occuring at 30,000 miles and the second, 60,000 miles further at a total of 90,000 miles. After that I would infer every 60,000 miles (e.g.150,000 miles etc.) the rationale for the early first change is probably to remove any manufacturing debris.
The change process has two choices. For a normal situation where the existing oil appears clean, not discolored, not grimy when rubbed between the fingers, where trans is shifting normally and engaging promptly when shifted from Park or Neutral into gear, and doesn't shudder when it shifts: a single pan drop and replacement with 4 qts of fluid (total trans fluid capacity is 9 qts) with subsequent verification of level on dipstick after being warmed up and then being driven 10 miles and inspection for any leaks and proper fluid level. I see no reason not to do a filter change if you have no evidence that the filter has ever been changed. The manual suggests using a 1/8" bead of RTV sealant dispensed from a tube around the mating surface of the pan and a small bead around the mating surface of each bolt head where it touches the pan.
The other option is for when one of the above trouble symtoms is present and essentially is a double dump of the pan, refiling it twice, once after each dump and of course driving for 10 miles between the first and second dump to get it mixed, and replacing the filter after the second dump. The idea there is to further dilute the old fluid with new fluid. But I would wonder if all that really is worth it because you would still have about 2 quarts of the original fluid mixed in with then new stuff, and twice the labor etc.
There is an alternative, I understand, that involves a machine that exchanges all the fluid with a pump in one pass
and presumably requires that 9 or a little more quarts be used in a single changeout process. But you would have to find some shop that has such a changer and pay them to do it right. But again be absolutely certain that they use the Chrysler brand fluid (ask for the empty containers as proof) as failure to do so appears to open the door to the self-destruction of the trans. It is Mopar type 7176 ATF +3.
Do not use any Dexron fluid!
So I know that because this is a new vehicle for you that you want to do right by it, but don't go overboard on this.
If the trans is working good and there are none of the symptoms, but because you don't have any proof of any change since new, then I would advise a single dump with filter change. Your concern is well taken though, because you are entering the mileage region where these electronic transaxles begin to develop symptoms of wearout, with removal and rebuild being quite costly. So preventive maintenance is well-advised.
Roland
AnswerHi Colt,
All my Chrysler shop manuals speak of creating a gasket by use of RTV sealer that comes in a tube with an accessory spout. The tip of the spout is cut to an internal diameter of 1/8" and then apply by squeezing the RTV out the tip as you move it around the circumference of the pan which has been previously cleaned as has the underside of the trans with which it engages. I have no experience on which to recommend a type of pre-formed gasket. The bolt heads are to be torqued to 165 inch-pounds (~14 foot-pounds) and thus the bead of sealant is compressed to form a gasket in place. Tighten the bolts symmetrically in two steps to get an even compression of the bead. That is my advice based upon the manual.
Roland
