QuestionWhat is wrong when you put it in gear, either drive or reverse, and the car will not go forward or backward? The transmission feels like it engages, but you gas it and the engine just starts to bog and the car will not move. If it is in neutral and running you can not push the car forward or backwards. You shut the car off and put it in neutral you CAN push the car forward or backwards.??? The output sensor was just replaced and transmission filter last week because it went out and had to be towed. It was running good and coming home on the highway it sounded like a thump and I lost power to the transmission, but the car runs. It just would not go either forwards or backwards. Any idea of what it might be or what I have to do?? Thanks!
AnswerHi Carl,
A similar, but not identical question came in a couple of days ago. Here is how I responded:
"Delayed engagement from neutral to drive can be caused by several things:idle speed too low, hydraulic fluid low, fluid pressure low, internal filter clogged, pump pressure low...are the not too expensive reasons. So I would start with those. But in cold weather maybe warming up the drivetrain for a little longer before shifting into drive may be all that you need to do. The idle rpm should be around 800 if you have a tach. The fluid level should be checked after you have driven the car to warm it up, then check it while idling on a level surface area. If it is not in the cross-hatched Hot area, then add some Chrysler brand type 7176 via the dip stick tube. Get that from a dealer, and don't overfill it either as that can do damage. Then you have a choice of either draining part of the fluid and changing the filter and request that the shop tell you if they find any debris in the drop pans (and be sure to use the Chrysler brand fluid) or if the fluid smells burnt then consider a power flush to remove all the old fluid rather than just about half of it which is all you do when you drain it. An alternative next step would be to have the powertrain and transmission controller memories readout for any fault codes that might have been stored in the past, as when the check engine light came on. Then get the specific code number and the meanings, repair types and costs, and write back with the results for evaluation before authorizing any repairs. If there is an Autozone store near you they may offer a free readout. You might try turning the ignition key "on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing tht in 5 seconds or less and then watch the odometer window to see if any four-digit numbers appear in place of the mileage reading. That may only read for engine problems, not transmission, but if you get something that way let me know the numbers.
The bottom line is to try and diagnose intelligently and don't authorize unnecessary repairs. It is important to stick with Chrysler brand fluid, and to preserve the lift of the trans by driving it gently. These electronic transmissions are very expensive to rebuild."
Because you had the filter changed recently presumably you would have been told if they found debris in the pans. What brand and type of transfluid was used to refill your trans? If it was Dexron then get a power flush to get rid of all that, which is evidentally not compatible with the Chrysler transmissions. Let the car idle for 10 minutes, then check the fluid level in the trans. Maybe it is low. Was that work done at a good independent shop or a Chrysler dealer? If not then I would be concerned that the wrong fluid was used. Take a look at the service receipt to see whether it says the type of fluid used.
Let me know what you learn, please. Let's hope this is something simple.
Roland
