QuestionI have got a code 24. I have replaced the throttle position sensor, the hall effect pickup coil(had code 11/gone now),distributor cap and rotor,wires and plugs,new fuel pump(installed by mechanic and was running).Note: power-loss light on/limp in mode. I suspect fuel filter(need 31 micron for 13micron old per Alldata)have not done yet,cam sensor,crankshaft sensor,regulator,power module to bad what do you suggest?
2.5L SFI (eight letter of vin #)
2 door coupe with AK body
series: premium
[Chilton lists a problem for code 24 to be in PCM(this is for2.5L EFI)is that same as SFI] other codes list code 24 as throttle positioner
AnswerHi Mike,
The 24 code is for the throttle position sensor, the 11 for the hall effect pick up. The code you are showing may be stale. Disconnect the - post of the battery for 5 minutes then reconect and try to start it. Then check the codes. You should only have a 12 and a 55 which mean battery power was disconnected recently and end of readout, respectively.
If you get anyother code then presumably it is relevant to the situation.
I would begin by checking for spark: hold the tip of the spark coil wire (end of which is removed from the distributor cap) 1/4" from the cylinder head while a helper cranks the engine and observe whether you get a blue spark for a full 5 seconds of cranking. If so, then do it again only this time gradually move the tip of the wire away from the head during the 5 seconds and watch for any arcing to occur around the spark coil tower at the other end of the wire.
If you pass those two tests then we need to consider the fuel supply/mixture issues. If not then we have to look into the spark generating system. If you don't get a full 5 seconds of spark during a 5 second crank, then check the + post of the ignition coil with a voltmeter (or neon glow lamp) to see if you get 12V on the post compared to ground for 5 seconds of a full 5 second crank or only for 1-2 seconds, on not at all.
While I wait for a progress report from you, I would check one other part: the exhaust gas recirculation valve. It is behind the engine nearer to the front (toward the passenger). It has a metal body and a round acuator on top with a saddle-shaped flange between the two. Inside the flange you will see a metal rod with a circumferential slot which is the valve stem. Try moving the stem back and forth, using the tip of a screwdriver inserted in the slot, against spring pressure trying to close the valve in the downward direction. Check that the stem moves freely, and closes to dead stop, all the way down. If it seems to be hung up or sticky spray some WD-40 on the stem where it enters the body. Then verify that it is moving freely and closing all the way. It has to be closed when you try to start the engine or otherwise the mixture will be too dilute to sustain the idle.
So do the spark tests and check the egr and let me know what you learn. I'll be around tomorrow if you have a chance to do this troubleshooting, though I may not be 'available' all the time. You can also get back via the "rate the expert" tab where there is a space for comments. I get an alert and will read what you enter into the comments section and then get back to you.
Happy holiday,
Roland
