Chrysler Repair: 91 NY 5th Av, electrical; no horn, no power locks, no hazard lights, no power mirrors, digital ohmmeter, continuity tester


Question
Mr. Finston,
I replaced fuse #2 in power dist. center and that seems to resolve the hazard lights.
However, fuse #13 was blown; replaced and it blew again as soon as I tried the power lock.  The horn did work but didn't check the mirror before the fuse blew.  I do have an analog multimeter which shows continuity.  Not wanting to use up a box of fuses, how would I isolate and fix the power lock, assuming that's the one?  
I can probably borrow a digital ohmmeter if that would help.
Thanks again for your helpfulness.
Cindy

-------------------------------------------
The text above is a follow-up to ...

-----Question-----
My mom's 91 New Yorker 5th Av had a reversed polarity issue (cables on charger were reversed).  Most electrical problems were resolved except now the horn, power locks, power mirrors, and hazzard lights don't work.  The auto lock feature works normally at 15 mph.  These items are not grouped in a relay according to the owner manual (We don't have a service manual).  Is there another relay somewhere that would effect all?  If so, how would it be accessed?  Thank you so much for the info and help you provide.  cjg
-----Answer-----
Hi Cindy,
I would check all the relevant fuses, both visually (look for a subtle crack in the wire if it is not blown out entirely) and with an ohmmeter/continuity tester (if you have either) and then we can go on from there with whatever is not cleared up by checking fuses:
horn and power mirrors and power door locks: fuse 13 under the dash (20 amp)
hazards: fuse 2 in power distributrion center (rectangular box on the drivers side of the engine compartment) (20 amp).
There are some relays too but no master relay, so lets check those two fuses first. Let me know what you learn, please.
Roland  

Answer
Hi Cindy,
Sure, let's work it through by e-mail. You can write to me at rfinston@hotmail.com
I have the '89 shop manual and now that I look at it there appears to be a long this bezel containing the power window and power door lock switches and that bezel comes out in its entirety. The manual says there are 5 spring clips that hold it in place. So gently lever the edge of the bezel up working gradually to lift it uniformly so as not to flex it too much so that if it is plastic it won't crack. Then you should be able to remove the wire harness from the door lock switch and do the first checks that I listed.
Roland





Hi Cindy,
I am glad that you told me that fuse 13 blew when you tried the door lock switch. I assume that you tried to use the driver's side switch in door. There are three wires on that switch which you can access by gently lifting the switch edge from the hole into which it is pressed.
red wire: the 12V lead from fuse 13, it is "hot" at all times
orange/violet: goes to pin 8 of the body computer and to a pin on the passenger side door lock switch
pink/violet: goes to the door unlock relay above the glove box and to a pin on the passenger side door lock switch
Because the fuse blew, when you tried the power lock switch, one or the other of the two latter wires is erroneously grounded (reads 0 ohms to ground which is any shiny metal body structural surface). So begin by measuring those two wires, between each and ground, to see which is shorted to ground.
If the orange/violet then go to the connector at the passenger side switch and verify that the same wire there is also grounded after removing the connector from the switch.
If the pink violet then do the same thing as above. If disconnecting the right side switch corroborates that the wire itself in question is grounded, then we know that the passenger side switch is ok and that something in the wiring is shorted or in the relay or the body computer.
Let me know what you observe and we'll go on from there.
Another way of handling this, if you are familiar with reading circuit diagrams, is for me to send you (by xerox and postal mail) the 3 pages that show the diagrams and switch design, and let you work this through on you own. Otherwise we can continue back and forth until we determine what is causing the short that blows the fuse. When you write back let me know your preference.
Roland