Chrysler Repair: 99 Sebring fuse problem: #8 in power center blows, transmission control module, fuel pump relay

Question
I recently changed my battery in my 99 sebring jxi..it ran fine for a while but i drove it to work parked it..and it wouldnt start. the lights all came on inside..and the brake light came on in the dash but the engine didnt even turn over. The fuse for the ignition fuel starter (#8) was blown out and i replaced it. The car started fine and i turned it off. The next time i went to start the car it wouldnt start and the fuse was blown again. I replaced it and it burned out without the car ever starting. I was wondering if this is a wiring problem and where to look for a problem. I was also wondering if there is a way to know if the fuel pump is bad because i have been told taking it to a repair shop for this might result in them repairing things that arent broken when it may just be as simple as a wire problem
thanks, lisa

Answer
Hi Lisa,
Let me give you a further few steps to locate the short in the fuse #8 circuit. I assume that removing the stater relay and fuel pump relay doesn't cause an increase in the resistance (to more than 1 ohm which is the sign that you would have found the short). Now I suspect that even in the run and start position of the ignition switch that the resistance still reads below 1 ohm. If that is the case then go under the dash on the driver's side to the junction block which has fuses in it as well. Remove fuse #11 and see if that causes the resistance to jump. I suspect it will. Then put fuse 11 back in the holder.
Then find the bottom of the junction block which has 9 plugs in it. If they are labelled try removing C2 (brown, 9 wires in a 10-pin plug) and see if that raises the ohm reading: if it does then the short is in the transmission control module under hood. If not, put that plug back in. Then remove C7 which is "natural" in color and has 12 wires. If the ohm reading jumps up then the instrument cluster or autostick (if equipped) is the cause of the short. If the ohm reading still doesn't change then the body computer is the cause of the short.
So that should move you along.
Roland

Hi Lisa,
I agree that this is something you might be well advised to repair yourself.
The best way to troubleshoot this is with a volt-ohmmeter. If you have one or can borrow a digital readout meter the way to use it is to begin by measuring the resistance between the #8 fuse socket and ground. First find out which spring holder has 12V on it and instead focus on the holder that has no voltage on it. Measure the resistance between that one and ground (ground is either the (-)post of the battery or any metal surface like the engine block. It will probably read much less than one ohm since the 20 amp fuse is blowing. Now, first remove the starter motor relay and see if the resistance jumps up, and if not then the fuel pump relay, and if not then the problem is in the wire that feeds the ignition switch, the switch, or one of the circuits fed by the switch. Write back and tell me what you found and we'll go from there. Those relays are in the same distribution center as the fuse and should be labelled. If the relay removal doesn't cause an increase in the ohm reading then try putting the ignition switch in each of its various positions to see if you can observe the resistance to jump up above 2 ohms.
If I'm maxed out send me a response by the "rate the expert" tab where there is a space for text under comments.
Roland