Questioni took my car to autozone today and the only codes they got to come up was the coolant temp sensor which i already fixed, another one was about the power steering and the last one i can't remember for sure but it was some misfire from a spark plug or something...so i'm not sure how to find out what is wrong w/ the ABS since there isn't a fault code coming up...would you just recommend me putting it into the shop? -thanks
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i can't seem to find the 16 pin connector that you are talking about, the only one i found is to the left of the steering wheel beside the hood release and i believe that is for the diagnostic tests...i even took the dash off up under the steering wheel and didn't see any connectors to the right of the steering wheel and to the left there were a bunch of different ones...also i noticed a new code pop up on the service engine soon light, the code was 65 and i'm not sure what that is...any advice?
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i replaced my coolant temp sensor and now the fan kicks on when the coolant
heats up! i noticed that the coolant temp sensor codes are still showing up
being the 17 and 22 codes, will those go away or do i have to disconnect the
battery cable for a while for them to go away?...i also moved the door latch in
more inboard and the door ajar button now stays pushed in while the door is shut
so i am happy about that too! i have been taking it one problem at a time with
this car and hopefully i have stumbled upon one of the last problems which is the
ABS...when braking during high speeds with excess of 60mph the ABS seem to
disfunction and the faster you are going the more the brakes seem to not work,
especially when running around 70mph and use severe braking the brakes feel
locked up almost...i filled the brake fluid up to the max point and i thought
that my fix it because it seemed a little low but when i tried that out it
didn't seem to work...while braking at high speeds it seems to work good until you get down to 40mph and the ABS feel like they kick in but the problem
is they do not seem to release and the ABS seems to be overcorrecting so instead
of taking 3-5 sec to make a complete stop it takes 10-15sec to stop and the
brakes feel like they are grinding but the rotors are perfectly smooth so i'm
not sure what that feeling is from...but otherwise at 55mph and under the brakes
work like a charm...i almost plowed into a car last week heading down the
interstate, just happened to be lucky the emergency lane was clear...also the
ABS warning light comes on during severe braking like this and turns off when i
cut the car off then back on...any advice? -thank you
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Hi Colt,
I'm glad you are making progress. The fault codes will self-erase in 50-100 key on-off cycles. Or you can disconnect the battery for a few minutes, but you will then get a 12 code that will have to self-erase.
On the ABS, you may be able to do an ABS controller memory readout for its fault codes just like you did for the engine. Find the 16-pin data link connecter under the dash, to the right of the steering wheel. The wire top row of pins is numbered 1-8, left to right (but check the front and rear of the plug to verify that). According my '95 Sebring Coupe manual if you turn the ignition key to the "run" position then ground pin 1 of the connector you should initiate a readout using the flash/pause method but in this case the ABS light is what you watch. So let me know if you get any two-digit ABS codes and what they are.
Roland
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Hi Colt,
I am unfortunately limited in having just the '95 Sebring coupe manual. Your '97 if its a convert will have different wiring and thus I suspect that the data link connector in your car is indeed to the left of the steering column. I am not certain whether you can get the ABS faults to readout on your car the way I found it described for the '95. You might be better served to have an Autozone or other parts store that offers free readouts do a readout thru the plug asking them for the ABS fault codes. I would be a little wary of grounding pin 1 on your car the way it is suggested for the '95 Coupe. The 65 code is somewhat vague may be related to the brakes as well. The '96 Cirrus manual says it could be related to brake switch performance circuit or power steering switch failure. Again, a readout with a diagnostic tool would no doubt better localize what is the problem compared to the dash indication.
Thus I would recommend a readout with a diagnostic readout box as these codes and the ABS issues are probably not going to be known with just an on-board readout.
Roland
AnswerHi Colt,
The readout Autozone used may not have the capability of reading out the ABS controller. You might take a look at the 16 pin plug under the dash. If the pin number 1 wire is yellow in color then that is the same as shown in my '95 Sebring coupe manual wiring diagram. If so, then I believe it would be safe to ground that wire while the ignition key is in the run position to hopefully initiate an ABS readout via the ABS light.
Other than that, it might be most efficient to get a readout at a Chrysler dealer and then get the code numbers and what they mean, and what the repair would be and cost. Then write back and we'll compare that to the manual.
Roland
