Questionwas driving down the road and just quit, no sputtering or warning prior, always has ran fine, coasted to the side. Then will turn over and actually fire right up but then quit as quickly as it starts. Two days later started for mechanic and they said no codes. I went to pick it up and would not start again. They turned it over and hit the gas pedal a bit and it kept running to pull back into shop. New mechanic, ran some tests but found nothing, has started for him everyday for the past 2 weeks while out at his shop? I have it back now rigged with a fuel gauge hooked up inside to check fuel pressure in case it quits again, he thinks it is fuel pump but not sure? Wants $350. to fix fuel pump, I want to be sure that is it. so far still running and maintaing pressure.
I was reading other threads but most wouldn't start period, this one is starting at the moment. Did anyone have something like this, just do not want it to quit in the middle of a busy intersection on my daughter. Thank you.
AnswerHi Don,
You may be in the twilight zone of stalling/starting with no codes. The threshold for recognition as a code fault may not have been met yet. Until you reach that threshold I would look for items that aren't always well monitored that can cause the engine to die, like whether the exhaust gas recirculation valve is sticking ajar. Check you underhood sticker to see if your engine (you didn't mention the year or engine) has such a valve (egr) and if so find it and try levering the valve stem open and shut with tip of a screwdriver inserted in the slot of the stem. If it doesn't close firmly with the help of spring tension then lubricate the stem with penetrating oil where it enters the valve body. I would of course keep checking for codes using the ignition key, particularly after the next stall. "On-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing this in 5 seconds or less, then watch the check engine light which will be on to begin to flash, pause, flash, pause, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat to verify accuracy.
You can get code translation at www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html or write back if you get something other than 55 (end of readout).
I wouldn't pop for a fuel pump without proof that it has too low a pressure output.
If it really starts right back up, you may have to just accept the odds and keep driving until it sets a code/reveals its cause because it won't start up. I would suspect a solid state detector in the distributor is beginning to fail which will set a code. The last thing to check would be the wiring harnesses (shake them with the engine running) to see if you can generate a stall.
Let me know as something comes to light, please.
Roland
