Chrysler Repair: 98 chrysler sebring 2.5 v6 jxi hot stall,immediate start up!, crank sensor, chrysler sebring

Question
occasional longer startup times 10m-1.5hr, but very in frequent!  replaced cam and crank sensor, made it worse untill i resynced the 2 sensors! now back 2 same as before stalls 2-5 times a day and almost always at a light(idle) and restarts immediatly! occasional stall under load. so the ignition key cylinder`s contacts might fry? been up 1 side and down the other on this car! me and 5 different 1/2 decent techs! checked vacum fuel pressure all codes(it pulls no codes at all!)(ever, like in the last 6 months, no codes, ever) new plugs new wires ne cap new rotor new crank sensor new distributor new fuel pump , checked egr checked relays drank heavily, gave up for about 5 minutes! i have never in my life not fixed a customers car, ever! since 92 i have fixed every damn problem dealt me, not this one! still working on it after 3 months! worse it`s my new girl`s car, and i am looking like an incompitent ass! i have no mechanical training at all! just a good honest salesman who manages a good store and has a citywide reputation for getting it done right and inexpensively...the 1st freakin time! whoops talk to much,sorry .   so it`s the ignition cyl.?

Answer
Hi Lauren,
The ignition switch is not a bad idea. Why not ask her, when it stalls, to observe the dash and see which if any of the warning lights are "on" to compare with the dash situation when she has simply turned the key to the run position but not tried to start it yet (show her that now). If those two dashes look the same, then the engine has truly died even though the ignition switch is connected to all the items that are needed to run the engine which eliminates the ignition switch as the cause. Anyting different would suggest a problem with one of the sections of that switch. I would also show her the egr valve and the position of its stem when it is closed tight. Then when it stalls, ask her to open the hood and see where the stem sits compared to when it is fully closed. If ajar, that would explain the die off. I wonder about the asd relay possibly being flakey, but that should have set a code. And finally, is it possible that the code readout capability is compromised? Might want to disconnect a senor like the MAP and then see if that provokes a code. Are you using an OBD-II readout box, or just looking at the check engine light after cycling the ignition key (which may well be inappropriate way to get codes on a '98 vehicle)?
I would appreciate hearing back from you what you learn.
Roland